Once a prominent decor artefact, the tightly knit jamakkalam carpets in bright shades of navy blue, red, green, and white now don a new avatar courtesy Mayank Bhutra’s label, Erode.
The GI-tagged Bhavani jamakkalam, crafted in Tamil Nadu’s Erode district is on the verge of extinction, and Mayank says his label’s first collection — launched in May this year — is an ode to the craft. “Erode is a cultural luxury brand that reminds us how cultural heritage is fading, not just physically but also in the traditions we risk losing. There are many crafts like jamakkalam that are on the verge of disappearence. We need to act quickly in order to save them,” he says of the brand launched in 2021. “Our first collection, Jimikkalam, is a fusion of legendary musician Jimi Hendrix and the jamakkalam fabric. It has Hendrix’s free spirit and the vibrant colours of jamakkalam,” says Mayank, 23, who was raised in Erode, and currently resides in Mumbai.
Outfits from the series | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
“We have seen the jamakkalam since our childhood,” he explains of the venture his father, a textile expert, has guided him through. In 2020, on a visit to Bhavani with his father — who has been in the textile industry for over 15 years — to purchase the carpets, Mayank noticed a limited availability of colours and designs. “When we inquired with the Bhavani Handloom Cooperative Society, the secretary informed us that the craft may be at risk of extinction in the next two or three years as most weavers are above the age of 60. The younger generation is not taking up the craft due to meagre earnings.”
As for Hendrix, Mayank says he is a fan of old-school rock. “When I heard Jimi Hendrix’s songs, I was blown away by his confidence. I am an introvert and Hendrix helped me open up and become who I am.”
A weaver at work | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
A new set up
He explains how the team — with its unit in Erode — partners with small weavers in the district who have five to 10 looms. “The jamakkalam is woven in a pit loom, with a small hole dug in the ground for setting up. Weaving is particularly challenging during summer and the rainy season. Despite these difficulties, whenever I visit the weavers, the smiles on their faces never fail to impress me,” says Mayank, adding that their primary fabrics include handloom, power loom, and rapier varieties.
Conceptualised by Mayank and “partially designed” by his friends Laxmi and Sakshi, the collection comprises blazers, jeans, shirts, and shackets. “I have a masterji named Firoz Khan; he creates patterns and oversees the unit,” he adds.
An outfit from Label Erode’s debit collection, jimikkalam | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
The outfits feature bold silhouettes with a psychedelic touch representing Hendrix while the jamakkalam inspires the textures and stripes. “The streetwear culture is developing in India, and the combination of a dying craft with a developing culture can be incredibly beautiful,” says Mayank, who plans on working with other fabrics such as Chennimalai and Pallipalayam, among others. “The world has not seen much of Erode, and I aim to bring its stories and crafts with our creations.”
Upwards of ₹3,000 on erode.clothing/
