Have you read that book Deluxe by Dana Thomas? It is about how luxury lost its lustre, focussing on how big names like Louis Vuitton and Dior are becoming mass because of their accessibility. I’m bringing this up because I find a similar change in the beauty business as well. Big brands that were worshipped till about a decade back are now doing poorly because they are being overlooked for smaller, niche beauty houses.
Don’t get me wrong — I love big beauty brands. Estee Lauder’s trio of iconic serums (Idealist, Perfectionist and Advanced Night Repair) has seen me through my 20s. Dior’s Capture Totale is one product that works on all signs of ageing. And Elizabeth Arden (the most underestimated beauty brand of all time) has an effective range of ceramide capsules that were preservative-free before green beauty started trending. But today, as far as skincare is concerned, no big product launched by beauty biggies has reached cult status in recent times. All the new cult products are from smaller brands.
Kama Ayurveda’s Kukumadi lightens pigmentation and makes skin so supple that it’s the most-mentioned product (by other women) on my blog. I have mentioned Deciem - The Abnormal Beauty Company before and I will mention them again. They have used the most active, potent and effective ingredients for The Ordinary and NIOD line of products that cater to the evolved beauty customer. The Ordinary won multiple awards, including the 2017 CEW (the Oscars of beauty business) award last week. The Ordinary also launched a range of foundations that cater to each and every skin tone, unlike the beauty giants, that already has a massive waiting list.
Then there are the green beauty brands like Tata Harper for skin, Rahua for hair, and Bite Beauty for makeup. Jolii Cosmetic’s Specktra Stick is described as the most-pigmented highlighter by Allure magazine, and I can’t wait to try it out. And let’s not forget the dermatologist-backed cosmeceuticals such as Dr Dennis Gross, Peter Thomas Roth, and Zelens. People who want strong, anti-ageing formulations make a beeline for these doctors’ brands. What’s more, all the aforementioned brands are also cruelty free.
It’s not that big luxury beauty brands are losing out just because they don’t meet ethical standards (although that is one of the reasons). It’s also that customers now are so evolved that only a ‘Chanel’ or ‘Guerlain’ on the label does not suffice. People know that only the first three ingredients on the list matter. That random plant extracts don't mean a thing, no matter which exotic location they may come from. They know that most beauty formulations are packed with inexpensive fillers that don't make a difference. And that most luxe products contain fragrance and alcohol that antagonise sensitivity - the number one skin concern today.
I am the biggest supporter of luxury brands. Being a beauty-obsessed teenager in the late 90s, I have pored through magazines lusting after an Estee Lauder eyeliner and Chanel lipstick. So now that I have the power of the pen I must implore all my old beauty favourites to revolutionise themselves. Like a friend who loves giving unsolicited advice, I must recommend that they make their products clean and green, remove the unnecessary fillers, stop adding fragrance and alcohol, and pack them with enough active ingredients. Give us the modern-day Advanced Night Repair or Capture Totale, because, as beauty junkies, we respect nothing more than your priceless experience of not just years but decades.
A fortnightly column to remind you about all things skin deep
