In the bustling streets of Mumbai’s Colaba with numerous restaurants to choose from, the recently-launched Araku stands out for its dedication to regenerative agriculture produce. Located on the ground floor of Sunny House, built by the Nawab of Surat in 1897, Araku is spread across 2,800 square feet, across two levels, and seats 55 diners.
Designed by New York-based architect Jorge Zapatawe, the space features bamboo chandeliers crafted by artisans from the North-East as well as a 3D relief map of Araku Valley in Andhra Pradesh, highlighting the villages — Gondivalasa, Doravalasa, Thudum, Dumagudri, and Nandivalasa — where tribal farmers grow coffee across over 60,000 small estates.
Ghee Poached Fish has tender flavours with house-made podi salsa that is inspired by the South Indian lentil and spice podi. | Photo Credit: Purnima Sah
Regenerative agriculture is a farming method that focusses on regenerating and revitalising soil health through practices such as reduced tillage, cover cropping, and crop rotation. In other words, combines sustainable farming techniques to restore and boost the farmland’s ecosystem. Manoj Kumar, co-founder of Araku and CEO Naandi Foundation, says, “Regenerative farms are at the top of the ecological sustainability pyramid.”
There are no exotic ingredients on the menu, yet Chef Rahul Sharma, Araku’s brand executive chef, has made sure to feature flavours that are contemporary and global, with a twist. “Our menu, comprised of season-driven small plates, is cuisine-agnostic. It is inspired by the singular belief that our thoughtful choices will contribute to shaping the future of our planet,” says Rahul.
Bees wax ice-cream | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Everything from tofu to cream cheese is made in-house, he states, adding “We ae exploring how the same ingredient, for example, beetroot, can be used three ways on the same dish; or potatoes can be used for dessert. There aren’t enough regen farms or growers that cater to restaurants, which is why we are working with home-style ingredients.” For example, tangy green pepper leaves from Araku Valley are rendered as batter-fried crisps, and served with pickled green pepper aioli and zhug; a koji-cured chicken makes for a succulent dish; chokha-inspired smoked eggplant with lacto-fermented pepper sauce is served with zero-waste sourdough papad.
The global debut of brand Araku started with the sale of green coffee beans – by invitation only – to the specialty coffee importers from Europe, Japan and South Korea. “Then in 2017 we launched the first ever retail store in the famed gourmet neighbourhood of Marais in Paris. As soon as COVID ended, a flagship and specialty coffee academy was launched in Bengaluru. Buoyed by the overwhelming response in Bengaluru, we decided to launch the first-ever, exclusive, regenerative agriculture-based restaurant in Mumbai,” says Manoj. The space also features an expansive bakery on the mezzanine along with a relaxed cocktail bar and lounge.
Sweet and acidic masala toast is Araku’s house-made sourdough topped with Philly cheese, a cream cheese brought in from Puttaparthi in Andhra Pradesh. | Photo Credit: Purnima Sah
This launch ties in with #Arakunomics, an integrated economic model that ensures profits for farmers and quality for consumers through regenerative agriculture. This is based on work with tribal farmers in the Araku Valley for over 20 years by non-profit trust Naandi Foundation,with the principal investor and chairman of the social enterprise being Anand Mahindra.
Try the masala toast here, made with their house-made sourdough topped with Philly cheese, a cream cheese brought in from Puttaparthi in Andhra Pradesh. A2 milk is used for the making of the cheese and it is served with pickled green peppercorns from Araku as well as charred onion, pickled mustard, pickled lemon-honey and microgreens.
Araku’s garlic thecha with focaccia bread. | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
We sip on a beet and apple ice tea mocktail made of smoked beetroot, pineapple, lavender tea, lime juice and ginger ale. Instead of a typical syrup, the mixologists have made a beetroot-saccharum in which they smoke the beetroot, and store it alongside sugar, so it releases juices and flavours into the sugar. We also try Tepache Highball, a house-made tepache and fresh jasmine soda.
The main course features ghee poached fish, which is a hit with its tender flavours and house-made podi salsa. We pair it with a starchy, ancient, short-grain rice variety called kalanamak from Shravasti in Uttar Pradesh. The other highlights from the menu include kidney bean aioli, country chicken, pickled tomato and cheese salad, purple sweet potato gnocchi, and coconut noodles. Dessert includes beeswax ice cream, potato chocolate cake and rhubarb and cream cake.
Pepper aioli | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
We end lunch with a hemp mousse and green pepper biscuit; the latter is made of 72% dark chocolate mousse infused with hemp seeds, candied hazelnut, layered with house-made strawberry jam and green pepper biscuit. The green pepper used in the biscuit is also secured from Araku’s regenerative agriculture-led plantations while the chocolate used is of Indian origin, from Idukki, Kerala.
Restaurateur Aditi Dugar, chief brand advisor, Retail and Lifestyle at Araku explains why a menu may be the most powerful way to spread the message of ‘regen-dining’. Stating that it is the next food frontier, she says “Regen agriculture goes beyond sustainability, in that it leaves the soil richer than when you began. Our goal is to make it more mainstream, and that’s only possible when more people are curious about it.”
Hemp mousse and green pepper biscuit | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
ARAKU is at No. 1, Sunny House, Mandlik Road Behind Taj Mahal Hotel, 400001 Mumbai; Tuesday to Sunday, 12PM to 3.30PM (lunch) and 7PM to 1AM (dinner service until 10.30PM). ₹2,400 for two without alcohol, and ₹3,500 with alcohol. For reservations, call +91 7337205222
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