From the seasoned Rohit Bal and J.J. Valaya to the new-wave Manish Gupta and Rahul Mishra, most designers seem to be sitting in the ivory tower. Literally that is. Designers have taken a fancy for this understated tone and are using it to maximum effect in their collections.
When Rohit Bal's “Kaarigari” rocked the ramp at the recent Lakme Fashion Week finale, everybody was talking about one thing - the angelic models in a breathtaking ivory parade. With classic cuts and delicate workmanship that go with his signature, the master of magnificence created a celestial look with his flowing ivory silhouettes in the first sequence.
Sublime, saucy or sexy. Formal, semi-formal or downright casual. Traditional, fusion or Western. Georgette, linen or raw silk… the off-white tone with a hint of lustre lends itself beautifully to varied moods, occasions, styles and fabrics. In his artisanal Spring-Summer collection “Valley of Flowers”, Manish Gupta plays with weaves to come up with A-line dresses, shifts and button-down outfits in low-key ivory with touches of bright tones.
Says New Delhi-based designer Ravi Bajaj, “Ivory spells timeless chic. I always visualise my muse in an ivory satin silk sari with pearls. It's a colour that has the power to be virginal as well as sinfully seductive. It looks pristine at day and glamorous for the night. Some of my favourite things come in ivory - roses, vanilla ice cream, pearls, natural silk etc.”
The first reference to ivory as a colour in the English language, according to Wikipedia, is said to be in 1385. Indian designers revel in the fact that for ages, ivory has been used in our unstitched ethos. Whether it is the distinct weaves of Bengal and the brocades of Benares or the cottons of Kerala and the gossamer-like Chanderis of Madhya Pradesh, the neutral tone finds resonance in India’s textile tradition. Says Mumbai-based Rahul Mishra, “Much before dyes were invented, ivory being the natural color of fibre was used traditionally in most Indian textiles. Organic fibers and textiles are also commonly found in ivory color. It’s a colour that helps reflecting harsh sunlight, so it enhances the functionality of a garment in the Indian context. Personally, from my very first collection, the Kerala Project, I have been using ivory coupled with gold border. To me, the combination of ivory and gold is the most perfect and next to divine. In India – from East to West and North to South, the ivory color plays a pivotal role in every craft tradition. Being a craft lover, ivory has become a natural choice for me. I see it as an organic colour that symbolises longevity and sustainability in fashion.”
Designers Abraham and Thakore are famous for their experiments with organic textiles. Their delicate ivory-toned linens coaxed into fluid silhouettes have made fashionistas sit up and take notice. According to Rakesh Thakore, “Kora is the colour of India. It is the purest – untouched by dye or bleach and worn at many of our rituals. The colours of a peacock emerge from an ivory egg. The most beautiful embroideries of the country done on ivory-coloured silks. The natural cottons of India are ivory.”
Though a high-maintenance colour, many designers chose to wear ivory regularly. “It’s not easy to maintain. Besides, it’s not a colour that suits all skin tones. And as far as accessorizing goes too, ivory is very tricky,” says designer Rehane, who can often be spotted in ivory. Ravi Bajaj explains, “Agree, it’s a light colour that requires careful maintenance. But in India, every colour requires the same care! It’s a huge challenge to maintain the tone of textiles.”
When it comes to texturing or playing with fabric, nothing seems more graceful than the neutral tone that has an inherent hint of richness. Whether it’s silk zari, intricate embroidery, lace, pin-tucks or pleats, embellishments on ivory coloured garments seldom lead to a mind-numbing repetitive parade on the ramp. Manish Gupta, know for his ivory fascination says, “My designs are about simplicity set against complex texturing. Ivory best supports my philosophy. It defines my idea of class and elegance.”
With fashion houses spring-cleaning for summer, more and more ivory garments are making it to the racks alongside sunny staples. With the right cut and restrained embellishment, an ivory garment can effortlessly float into your mind space. Otherwise, it will just register as a mass of yesterday’s marshmallow!
