Indore is famous for its khavaiyyes (foodies) and gavaiyyes (singers). It has a tradition of music, rich in history; it also has a wide range of offerings that satiate the palates of food lovers. A visit to Sarafa, a vibrant food street, confirms the delights of eating out — whether you are a native of Indore or a tourist. It is a must-visit and the most happening place in this vibrant city of Madhya Pradesh.
Sarafa is a jewellery market in day time. After sunset, it is transformed into a food bazaar that caters to hundreds of foodies a day. “It is an amazing place for the masses. The elite and middle-class mingle and enjoy together. It is unique to Indore,” says Rajeev Risodkar, who has lived his life in Indore. Culture and tradition are ingrained in every Indore citizen. Gauri Shanker Dubey, a local scribe, informs, “There are families who invade the Sarafa every evening! It is part of their life.” Celebrities and common folk are served on equal platform at Sarafa, which has been in existence for more than 50 decades now.
The variety at Sarafa is mind-boggling. Snacks and sweets, in various tastes and shapes, lure you into a lovable indulgence. The place boasts close to 500 stalls with almost 50 varieties to pick from. The eateries spring in a flash once the jewellery shops close down. “Time is precious here. Customers can be seen converging even as the eating joints are being put up,” adds Mahaveer Arya, a local cricket official and an acknowledged connoisseur of Sarafa.
There are samosas, kachoris, pav-bhaji, pani-puri, chhole-tikiyas, sabudana ki khichdi, maalpua and poha. Then there is bhutte ka kees, made from grated corn and coconut. And then you move to Joshi ke dahi bade. This is very special. Before serving, he tosses the bada high and catches it in a bowl, adds the ingredients, and offers you with a very infectious and affectionate smile. The best part of Sarafa is, there is no loud soliciting and there are no chairs at any stall. It is a standing-only arrangement at the 150-odd stalls but no one minds.
Also at Sarafa, thefts are unheard of and locals claim that none has ever reported to have fallen sick after an evening at this fascinating food street. Having feasted on the snacks, you now turn to the sweets — gulab jamun, rasgulla and maalpua. Shikanji and basundi — milk products both with a heavy dose of dry fruits — can be filling. But you cannot escape without a bite from the jaleba, which can be eight jalebis rolled into one. The size of a jaleba is akin to the face of a badminton racquet. It takes eight of us to finish one jaleba.
Sarafa done, you wind past the Rajwada (of Holkars) and stop at the iconic paan shop. The shop has no shutters, it used to serve 24 hours, but security measures have now put restrictions. The shop still does not have shutters. The Anna paan shop boasts of former Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru and singing icon Lata Mangeshkar among its revered customers. It has a distinct quality and a serving method too. Anna does not allow you to touch the paan. He pops it into your mouth. From rickshaw puller to a BMW owner, they all enjoy his paan. If in Indore, it is a spot worth a visit for every tourist.
