The spaghetti Bolognese is lightly spiced, with plenty of meat to be found by the fork raking its way through its tangles. At Soleil, the restaurant located within Sula Vineyards, Nashik, the waiter politely extends a wine menu and asks me to make a pick. The words jump out in a confused tangle: cabernet sauvignon, reserve viognier, chenin blanc; accompanied by descriptions that state a range of flavours from pineapple, grapefruit, peach and honey to black pepper. For a novice in the many intricacies of wine and its consumption, all this was rather overwhelming.
Remembering the basics of wine pairing from frantic research and the titbits dropped by the guide who took us for a tour around Sula’s property earlier in the day, I take a stab, deciding to pair the spicy, meaty dish with a cabernet shiraz. The menu calls it a medium-bodied red wine with ripe cherry and plum flavours, and the aroma of black pepper. The waiter approves with enthusiasm, and soon, a glass of dark red wine arrives.
Remembering the instructions from an earlier wine tasting, I grab the glass by the stem (cupping it directly under the liquid looks fancy but exposure to body temperature can upset its composition), swirl the wine in the glass slightly (recommended for anything except some white and sparkling wines as this oxidises them more than necessary) and take a sniff. Hints of a peppery aroma: check. Once sipped, it is best to roll the tongue around to expose the taste buds to the flavour. A quick intake of air can alter the flavour even more, allowing a better appreciation for what is called, for lack of a better word, the ‘texture’ of the wine.
The shiraz, incidentally, is a variety of wine grape that is believed to have originated in the Iranian city of Shiraz, though more accurately, it is traced back to France. Even the nomenclature of wines is easier to understand with a little explanation: the name usually denotes the region where the grapes are grown and the name of the principal grape used in the wine. Some European wines are named mainly for the region, some famous examples being Burgundy and Champagne. With Indian winemakers like Sula, expect to find a few with the prefix ‘Dindori’, which is the region where the winemaker’s main vineyard is located.
Cutting out further complications, since accurate pairing can rely on factors as minute as the flavour of your pasta sauce, a general rule of thumb is to pair white meats with white wine (or medium red wines such as zinfandels and merlots, known for jammy or ripe fruit flavours) and red meats with bolder flavours such as the shiraz and the cabernet sauvignon. White and sparkling wines also make for good pairings with vegetables and soft cheeses. For desserts, like the very sweet caramelised apple tart that followed the spaghetti, a sweet late harvest wine or a riesling (which is mildly sweet with some fruity flavour) makes for a good pick. Port wine, a variety that is produced by interrupting the fermentation to leave residual sugar, giving it a sweeter brandy-like flavour, also makes for a great dessert accompaniment. For a fun local touch, one of the pairings recommended by Sula is a pumpkin erissery with riesling or chenin blanc (preferably the late harvest variety).
Wine and its ways are a complicated art, and no matter what one tastes in a sip or pairs a dish with, there is no guarantee of a memorable combination. But such is the beauty of wine, and it is best experienced with some simple guidelines and an open mind. Experiment and enjoy.
(The writer was at the property at the invitation of Sula Vineyards).
