When Babar came from the Central Asian steppes and established the Mughal empire in India, apart from changing the administrative structure and popular culture, Indian cuisine also underwent a tremendous change. Indian recipes were given a central Asian touch and Mughalai cuisine was born.
At the Masala Dani restaurant at The Paul, massive Mughal murals decorate the wall. Soft Sufi music envelopes the restaurant and you feel transported back in time, like a Mughal nobleman having a meal after a hard day at work.
We start with the yakhni shorba, comprising mutton pieces cooked with Indian spices. Spicy, it leaves a tangy aftertaste in the mouth and helps whet the palate for the many delicacies on offer. We also sample the murg Afghani — chicken pieces tempered with spices and cooked in a tandoor — which gives the meat a smoky flavour. The spices mix well with the chicken and create a melange of flavours. The chicken is soft and cooked well. A must try item would be the sweet and spicy anari murgh tikka, chicken leg pieces marinated with spices, hung curd and sautéed in pomegranate sauce. The beauty of this dish is in the fact that each bite offers a different taste. It is broadly spicy, but the pomegranate sauce adds an extra zing.
The galouti kabab, minced lamb tempered with cloves, is another signature dish served with a small sweet roti. The chef says, “Till date, in many parts of Lucknow, these kababs are used for breakfast. The sweet roti served with the kababs helps offset the spice levels.” The kabab is very soft and offers the clichéd melt-in-the-mouth feeling.
Vegetarians can sample the saunde aloo, baby potatoes baked in tandoor and tempered with spices and the vegetarian kababs served with spinach.
In the main course, we tried out the excellent murgh makhani, tandoori chicken cooked in a butter and tomato gravy. It is high on flavour and goes well with the laccha parathas on offer. However, the standout dish is the paneer makhani, cottage cheese cooked in a tomato and butter gravy with a hint of fenugreek. Not very spicy, this dish is prepared well. The distinct taste of the tomato can be noticed. The panner is soft and tastes like home made paneer from the north.
We finish the meal with a portion of gulab jamuns, kulfis and a big paan.
The Paul is located at 139/28 Domlur layout, off Intermediate ring road. Call 40477777
