As the word guru assumes new meaning in the upcoming Amazon India Fashion Week with JJ Valaya showcasing with his pupils in the finale, it is time to remember that even the master was also a pupil once. More than two decades ago, JJ Valaya was an intern under Rohit Khosla, arguably the first Indian designer, who was like a large banyan tree under whom designers like Rohit Bal, Rina Dhaka and Valaya blossomed, honed their skills and design sensibilities.
Sharing a working relationship with the man who during his short yet fruitful life gave a vision to climb up the ladder of fashion to young enthusiastic budding designers, who are now numero uno in their craft, was a great learning experience.
“I was privileged to be the first design intern under Rohit Khosla. Only after me he kept a training team. My most special moment and I cherish that association. He helped me understand how things can be done seamlessly. He had a rare knack of putting things in a beautiful way. He would do everything so effortlessly; give his special touch on embroideries and hand painted fabrics. Now, people are working on digital prints,” says Valaya, while taking a trip down memory lane.
Valaya’s craftsmanship on fabric stands for opulence and grandeur. And so also was the late designer’s style. “Rohit also had fondness for embroideries. He started this whole movement of introducing Western style into Indian wear. As a student one imbibes the guru’s ethos and not his look. He was experimental. He brought Western signature to Indian wear. The best part about a guru is that he selects only those who he feels are original and would not copy his work when they become independent.”
As we converse, Valaya emphasises that pupil’s interpretation has to be different even if the theme is similar. “For Amazon India Fashion Week, I have made a collection which is a cross between nomads of Kutch and royals of Nepal. We have captured the spirit. Theme is the same but both me and my prodigies Alpana-Neeraj have given different interpretation. Our interpretation reflects our philosophy. The discerning have to appreciate the spirit."
Unlike the dozen designer last time, this year in the finale, only Valaya and his prodigies will be showcasing the synergy between the master and his pupil in consonance with the theme of “India Modern Festive”.
Rohit Khosla was also a mentor to Rina Dhaka. “I was only 19-year-old when late Rohit Khosla allowed me to use his workplace. He was the only designer I knew. All of us, whether Rohit Bal or me, looked up to him. Even though he was a big name, he was so nice and generous that he gave me permission to use his work place. In fact, he gave me complete freedom to do as I please and never bothered about charging any money even though I made clothes for commercial purpose. He was a generous man who helped me to understand how to organise things. He was someone who inspired me with his life and not through his creations. I have grown up on my own in fashion.”
It is always interesting to know how much a guru passes on to his mentor. Dhaka says it depends on relationship one shares with pupil. “I have lot of prodigies who interned under me like Manav Gangwani, Mandira Wirk. Eventually it depends on the design work. When I embarked in the world of fashion we did not have to rush for things. Delhi was a small city with very little traffic. Now, with paucity of time and more competition, the whole relationship is rushed. We were lucky when we could absorb as well as have fun. Today’s generation has to clear its bills.”
For Ashish Soni also Rohit Khosla was like a manna from heaven. He was discovered by late Rohit Khosla in a nightclub. “He gave me Rs. 2,000 which was big money then. The first show I did for Rohit as a model also saw launch of Rohit Bal as a designer."
Slowly Rohit Bal replaced Rohit Khosla as mentor and like Bal, Ashish also started off as menswear designer. “When I began working with Rohit Bal, I was exposed to menswear. Rohit taught me value of aesthetics, approach to design and what creating a collection meant. Rohit designed for export house of his brother where he earned a lot of practical knowledge.”
Ashish learnt methodology from Rohit Bal, but found his own vocabulary.
While Valaya epitomises grandeur and opulence, his pupil Alpana stands for understated elegance. “As far couture goes, Valaya certainly symbolises opulence. Our opulence can be seen in the craftsmanship we do on silhouette, fabrics and textures. We have interpreted India Modern through surface texture. In this collection, the looks have been harmonised with that of the guru through colour palettes and interpretation of the motifs and embellishments. We have used gota work with Banarasi fabric.”
On the creative differences, Alpana says, “Valaya wanted a project done and spotted my talent. He told me that our sensibility matches and gave me a job in 2000. For five years I worked with him. He treated me like family. Open-hearted and generous, he has mentored me this time also but without imposing ideas. We would tell me subtly, gently. Of course, we have had different views over certain things but Valaya’s experience of 25 years reflects when he comes up with a point of view. Then we realise the bigger picture.”
The concept of guru-shishya parampara is deep rooted in Indian culture. She feels this tradition, seen in classical music and dance should reflect in fashion as well as the industry is over thirty years old now. “More and more fashion weeks should have this theme as it would take fashion forward.”
For Amit Aggarwal, it was Tarun Tahiliani, who gave him first break to learn intricacies of fashion. “I bagged maximum number of awards at NIFT where I graduated from in 2002. Tarun liked my creativity and roped me in for his design studio. I worked under him from 2002-05. He was supportive of my vision. Even now he makes it a point to come to our show.”
Amit says Tarun taught him how a sketch can be converted into a dream. “I realised the power of fashion. His biggest contribution was to introduce me to the art of draping. He taught me what fabric can do to a woman’s body. His work starts with drape then he translates them into pieces.” As a person, Amit reflects, “I don’t remember being shouted at even in the most pressurising moments in fashion weeks. It was an art that Tarun mastered.”
Amit also agrees that originality is essential to carve a niche. “I never copied Tarun. Like for the upcoming show, I have revived childhood memories. I have used industrial waste like eyes from a waste toy, birthday glitter, pom pom and blended it with hand woven chanderi silk.”
Amit feels guru-shishya parampara should be celebrated in fashion, which is known for its camps. “I know music, dance are older art forms than fashion but this master-disciple relationship is already a part of Asian culture, mostly prevalent in the Japanese fashion industry. Through this theme, these ethos are coming into Indian fashion as well.”
