Take nothing for granted when you are driving in the hills, say wise men. We will long remember the lessons we learnt during our seven-day road trip to Kumaon, the lake district of Uttarakhand.
Ten of us from Gurgaon hired a small bus for this trip. The hill journey started at Kathgodam, 265 km from Delhi. Soon we hit Bhimtal, one of the largest lakes in the district. Every place in India finds an etymological connection with some character in mythology. In this case, it is the he-man of the Mahabharata .
We billeted for the next three nights at the Pine Crest Hotel in Meheragaon, just above Bhimtal, a small but comfortable lodge with an excellent Italian restaurant. But being on the main road, it is subject to the cacophony of horns all day. However, it was a convenient halt for local forays, as the best known tals lie within a 16 km radius.
The first that we visited was, naturally, Nainital. The road goes through Bhiwali, a small run-down hamlet where the roads from Bhimtal, Nainital, Ramgarh and Almora-Ranikhet converge. John Masters would have named it Bhiwali Junction. The two km-promenade along one side of the pear-shaped Naini lake starts at Tallital. Traffic travels on two one-way lanes but there is no path marked for pedestrians. And no benches to take a breather. To top it all, one has to constantly dodge vehicles from behind. A signboard celebrates Nature’s bounty and invites us to listen to the ‘chirping of birds’. There is not much chance of doing that over the blasting of car horns.
The commercialisation of Nainital has kept pace with that of other Indian hill resorts. So, as we walk to the 128-year-old Boat Club at the other end, we see on the left a vast and serene lake and, on the right, another version of Delhi’s Lajpat Nagar market.
Fortunately, we hit upon the right place for lunch: the 70-year-old Sakley’s. Just as we signed finished a hearty meal, we saw the baker emerge from the kitchen taking freshly made éclairs to the showcase in the front. They never reached the case. They were irresistibly good.
Nainital requires more time because there are plenty of treks in the woods, and boating on the lake. Yachts with billowing sails glide over its surface during the regattas, which are held from time to time. The Naina Devi Temple lies at the north end of the lake and St. John’s Church a little deeper into the woods. A ropeway offers an easy ride to one of the peaks nearby.
During the return, our coach had to negotiate a sharp steep hairpin bend at Bhiwali. The driver took a wide arc to build speed and momentum, and almost scraped the hillside as he took the turn. The next day, returning from Ramgarh, he tried the same manoeuvre at the same spot. But this time, unknown to him, a mudslide had blocked a section of the road. In the hills this can happen often. Our guy had come too fast to stop. As he went over it the coach tilted precariously. We all but toppled over.
The next day we made a short trip to Sat Tal, a mere 10 km away. This is one of the quietest lakes in this region, as is the lovely drive through the pine forest. As the name suggests, seven lakes were conjoined to form one water body. Judging by the signboards, most dhabas here seem to specialise in karhi -rice and kheer . One has to side-step globs of cow dung to reach the water. Naukuchiatal, close by, is known for its beauty and serenity. This one we marked for our next visit.
The big cats hunted by Jim Corbett often came to these lakes to slake their thirst. Even now one needs to be cautious visiting these places alone, after dark. A close encounter with a leopard can ruin a holiday.
While returning, we came back through Khairna, on the snow-fed Kosi. En route we made a pit stop at Kainchidham, famous for its daal pakoras and for the shrine on the river bank. Kainchi is the local word for a hairpin bend. After our Bhiwali experience, we could appreciate how necessary it is to propitiate this deity.
Ready Reckoner
Kathgodam can be reached by road or rail from Delhi. Taxis are available at the rail head.
Plenty of hotel options are available. Check on the Net. Buses may not take you to lakes away from the main routes.
Except for fruits, nuts and local handicrafts, give shopping a miss. Go trekking instead. Each location has several options. Boating is also available at most lakes.
