It is a trek that’s more of a pilgrimage. For a climb up the hill in Zamin Pallavaram leads to Asthana-E-Moula Ali Dargah (popularly known as Moula Ali dargah), believed to be more than 400 years old. The place exudes an air of tranquillity, away from the madding crowd.
The first look and you know for sure that here is a place of worship that has many hidden tales dating back to several centuries. As you enter the precincts of the dargah, you cannot help but think, “How many Chennai residents know that such an old dargah sits pretty atop the Pancha Pandavar hill?”
When a Google search for more information proves futile, I turn to Kumail Hyder Khan, the 73-year-old secretary of the dargah, who fills me in with loads of stories and some history. He says, “There are several myths about what the locals call the Pancha Pandavarmalai and the dargah. But unfortunately not much of its history is available.” He adds that there is a cave inside, but no one knows who built it and for what purpose.
The septuagenarian elaborates on the famous sandal procession (Sandana Koodu festival), which has been celebrated for the past 200 years, on May 14 every year, the 14th day of Muslim Calendar, Rajab. His words conjure up an image of a lively procession which begins from Yadava Street and culminates at the dargah, where people from all faiths converge and participate. “It is a festival which cuts across religions and background,” says Khan saab.
“The structure itself speaks silently and eloquently about its history. The dargah, which is bustling with devotees and people from the vicinity, once presented a deserted look, its four kilometre radius completely uninhabited. The area was a jungle atop the hill. Legends and myths are aplenty, which make for an interesting read,” says Khan saab, and goes on to narrate one.
Interesting storyDuring the British reign, a hungry lion suddenly appeared near the hill and struck terror among the villagers, wood gatherers and shepherds who used the jungle. The villagers tried to chase it away and save their lives.
When all efforts failed, they sought the help of the military. So the brave men in khaki, wielding guns, came and did their best to fight the beast. But they too remained unsuccessful. (In fact, even today, one can spot a few holes on the walls which are believed to be the relics of the military shooting.) When all else failed, the villagers sought divine intervention and prayed to Allah.
Khan pauses for a second, and then continues… “A saint appeared as if from nowhere and the lion attacked him. But he cast a spell on the animal. Soon, it stood subdued before him and circumambulated him. The saint stroked the lion, which quietly left the village. After a couple of days, the saint too disappeared.”
Khan ends the tale by saying dramatically, “The saint was none other than Moula Ali, son-in-law of the Prophet Mohammed, and husband of Fatima, daughter of the Prophet.” At some point of time, a small ‘panja’ (a palm) was erected inside the cave and the villagers started calling the place ‘Panj than’ or Panja Andavar. A sect of Hindus, in fact believe that the Pandava princes built it and hence the name. “Around 100 devotees visit the dargah on weekdays and the weekends record nearly 500 people,” says Mr. Khan. The place is popular with the film crew and several movies have been shot here.
For people, mostly Muslims and Hindus, faith and devotion guide their lives and not myth or history. Every day, they throng the dargah and worship the ‘panj than’ faithfully, hoping that their problems will be solved and their prayers, granted.
