Rishikesh is traditionally the place where sadhus and sanyasis go to meditate and seek enlightenment. Today, it is a popular spot not only with Indian and foreign tourists, but also with those who seek spiritual knowledge, are students of yoga, or keen on adventure sports, such as white water rafting and trekking.
The River Ganga flows through Rishikesh in her most unpolluted form. The river, which is formed in the Himalayas by the confluence of Bhagirathi and Alaknanda, leaves the foothills and first reaches the plains in Rishikesh, thereby conferring an extra- special spiritual status to the town.
On both banks of the Ganga are several miscellaneous temples, yoga centres and ashrams, such as the Hanuman temple, the Sivananda Ashram and Yoga Centre and the Swami Dayananda Saraswati Ashram, which houses the Sri Gangadhareshwarar Temple.
While the presiding deity of this temple is Lord Siva in the form of ‘Gangadhareshwara,’ the Ambal is the holy Ganga herself, which flows past the temple and is known here as Hymavathy, (the daughter of Himavan). At dusk everyday, all the temples and ashrams join in the ceremonial ‘Ganga Arati’, a prayer to the mighty river, that has the power to wash away people’s sins. The more time one spends in watching the Ganga, the more intriguing the river seems.
Early in the morning, with the soft rays of the sun playing on her surface, she seems to dance and ripple along. In the afternoon, she flows gently, beckoning one to come and bathe in her cool waters. In the evening after the arati, with the mountains casting their shadows on her waters, she seems wild and turbulent!
The Lakshman Jhoola is a suspension bridge across the Ganga, in the northern part of Rishikesh. It marks the spot where Lakshmana is said to have crossed the Ganga using a jute rope bridge, while Rama was doing penance in Rishikesh for having killed Ravana.
The jute rope bridge was replaced by a suspension bridge in 1889, which was washed away in the floods of 1924. The present Lakshman Jhoola was constructed in 1929. Afterwards, several other such bridges, such as the Ram Jhoola have been built.
The streets around Lakshman Jhoola are chock-a-block with shops selling handicrafts, trendy casual wear and puja requisites that rub shoulders with those selling essential cosmetics.
The entire area appears to be following some norm to keep the streets clean and litter-free, but the results, though visible, could be a lot better.
The sadhus of Rishikesh are fed at a ‘Bhandara’, which is hosted regularly by some of the ashrams. They are also given some money on the occasion. Lay visitors sometimes sponsor a ‘Bhandara’ (feeding of the sadhus). One watched a ‘Bhandara’ in progress, and was amazed at the number of sadhus who took part! With all the meditation, spirituality and feeding of the poor that takes place in the city, Rishikesh does live up to the title of ‘Dev Bhoomi’ given to Uttarakhand.
(Rishikesh can be reached by road from the Haridwar Railway Station or from the Airport in Dehradun).
