Old Delhi encompasses flavours, camaraderie and quaint oddities. Giving a ‘taste' of the city's culture is the Sharbat-Kulfi Walk, an initiative of Red Earth. An exploration of the throbbing alleys of Chandni Chowk and Khari Baoli, through varied foods and coolants, is an indigenous way to beat the sweltering heat.
At about six in the evening, when the sun casts breezy shadows in the bustling Chandni Chowk, a group gathers at Fatehpuri mosque to see a tale unfold before their eyes. The mosque, built and named after one of Shah Jahan's wives, Fatehpuri Begum, embodies the grandeur of the Mughal empire and celebrates the essence of Chandni Chowk.
Khari Baoli, Asia's largest spice market, houses businesses passed down generations. Along with the mounds of dry fruits, luscious murabba and tangy pickles, the air is thick with spices and twitchy edges of the nose generously give way to a volley of sneezes. “That's chilli powder, to ward off the evil eye,” someone murmurs.
Colourfully-lined glass bottles at Harnarain Gokal Chand's sherbet shop catch the roving eye. The 100 year-old store diffuses a faint whiff of myriad essences, ranging from sandalwood to aam panna, khus, almond and rose. Ask for a free sample of khus or aam panna and the man across the counter serves readily. Relish it and you would surely carry one home.
Look out for a dingy stairway leading up to the famous Flower Market of Khari Baoli, almost 80 years old. Amidst the riot of shades of marigold, jasmine and rose, absorb their delicate scents.
Climb up a few more stairs, and gaze at Old Delhi's skyline, living out its charm — dancing electric wires, pigeons, kites flying against the mellow breeze and the striking contours of Fatehpuri mosque.
For that parched sensation, head towards Amritsari Lassi Store, standing tall since a century. The rose-badam flavour is lick-worthy, joy skimmed to the brim.
Saunter down the Lal Kuan Road and another gastronomic delight waits at Bade Miyan Firkiwala. His kheer, made with oodles of warmth and ghee, whips up happiness. Pointing to the seventh generation lounging in the chair, the owner comments, “They are next, waiting to take up the big challenge.”
And how can Ashok Chaat Bhandar be overlooked. Treat the pangs in taste buds and slurp tamarind syrup spread over mushy bhallas and boiled chickpeas.
In Kucha Patiram, at Sitaram Bazaar, indulge in Duliram Nareshchand's sumptuous kulfi. Mango rabri or pomegranate dollops, drench your sweet tooth in the softening milk and cream. Or unwind with hot luscious jalebis at the famous jalebiwala in Dariba Kalan. It is a tongue-twisting fare indeed.
For the brave-hearts, there is the ever-luring Paranthe Wali Gali, flambéing crispy paranthas.
There is no better way of knowing a place but through its culinary art. “Our motive is to enjoy the forgotten summer foods,” claims Himanshu Verma of Red Earth.
Old Delhi is fascinating. What would it be without its carts and teeming humanity? Immerse in the rhythm and strum along joyfully.
