With millions of families dependant on weaving for their livelihood, some handloom clusters have been commercially developed by the government and private players. However, there are quite a few that have not grown beyond their regions. As a step towards creating a level playing field, Antaran, a part of Craft Based Livelihoods Programme initiated by Tata Trusts, is now focusing on three states: Assam, Nagaland and Odisha, known for their rich weaves.
This intervention seeks to look at the holistic development of each weaver cluster. Sharda Gautam, Head of Crafts at Tata Trusts, and his team selected 14 artisans who are showcasing saris, scarves, cushion covers and yardage at the ongoing Lotus Make-up India Fashion Week. “The focus these days is on Varanasi, Chanderi and Bhuj, which is why Tata Trusts wanted to look at lesser known weaving clusters,” says Gautam, adding that “Many of them are dying or are on verge of extinction.”
Each cluster has a textile designer who nurtures artisans in design thinking and advises them on colours, fabrics, and yarns. In addition, there’s support on business management, customer service, order execution, and market access, across this five-year programme, of which one year has passed. Excerpts from a conversation with Gautam:
In what ways is Antaran supporting pre-loom, on-loom and post-loom processes?
For pre-loom activities, we are trying to reintroduce natural fibres in different counts. In Assam we are focussing on hand spun fibres. We are also investing in indigenous tree cotton cultivation. The aim is to use more natural dyes and azo-free vat dyes in all clusters. For on-loom activities we are actively working on improving weaving techniques and teaching artisans about colour sensibility, [and the] interplay [between] different fibres, colour, textures and motifs. For post-loom activities, the aim is to have value additions like fringing, and ensuring products are washed and ironed before being sold.
What are the learnings from this one year of operation?
The biggest learning has been the fact that design education plays a pivotal role in uplifting the clusters. Handing out designs is not a solution. Artisans realize the value of education provided to them which is made available to them at their doorstep, in vernacular languages and at a time that is convenient to them.
What are the various techniques used by the artisans?
Women artisans from Kamrup Assam weave with cotton and eri fibres creating unique designs with an extra-weft technique. On the draw loom, each strand of yarn is handpicked to form a beautiful extra-weft design. The draw loom gives them the freedom to come up with exquisite designs and its variations, which is unimaginable in machine. The Nagaland weaves are done on loin looms. This way of weaving gives the fabric a special texture and tightness. Motifs are dexterously created through pick-up and extra-weft techniques by the Naga women on the loom which is strapped to the back of women weavers.
The Maniabandha artisans of Odisha specialize in weft ikat weaving, which is an intricate process of creating colourful textiles by first creating a design on graph paper, marking them on threads, tying, dyeing and hand weaving. In weft ikat, the patterns are created on weft yarn through tie-dye which appear only as the weaving progresses, requiring a high level of skill and concentration. While warp ikat designs are being copied on power looms, it is difficult to copy weft ikat ones.
Twist from North East
Vekuvolu Dozo, a 37-year-old from Nagaland specialising in loin loom weaving, has extraordinary passion for weaving. This can be exemplified from the fact that Naga women express their love and care for their beloved by presenting woven products. “ Our weaves are done on loin looms, also known as back-strap looms. This way of weaving gives the fabric a special texture and tightness. Motifs are dextrously created through pick-up and extra-weft techniques on the loom which are strapped to our back,” says Dozo, who has been weaving for the past eight years creating stoles, table runners and cushion covers.
At Major Dhyan Chand National Stadium, India Gate; on October 13; also at Artisan Exhibit of Handwoven Textiles, R K Khanna Stadium, 1 Africa Avenue, October 15 and 16; ₹800 upward
