“Look at these pretty tiles!” Taran — who usually never observed the ground beneath his feet — had stopped in his tracks. They were visiting Athangudi Palace, in the Chettinadu region of Tamil Nadu.
“I don’t know where I should look. it’s a sensory overload!” said Appa.
“What was the name of the king and queen who lived here?” Asked Taran.
“They were the Chettiars, who were traders,” said Appa. “They had amassed enough wealth through trading precious stones across Southeast Asia and wanted the best of design and architecture: tiles from Europe, chandeliers from Belgium, teakwood from Burma and so on.
“Are these tiles from Europe?” Taran was still starstruck by the unique pattern in yellows, reds and blues.
The guide and caretaker stepped in. “Initially they were imported, but it was difficult to repair and replace if the tiles cracked. It was discovered that Athangudi has a unique sand, which allows replication of the European tiles. Today, Athangudi tiles are world famous.”
After spending some more time at the palace, they learnt that there are about 10,000 Chettinad mansions across 90 villages; many of which had been abandoned. “In 1939, when World War Two began, overseas trade was hit badly and the merchants could not maintain their palatial houses. Some ran from one street to another with over 50 rooms.”
“Why did they build such big houses?” asked Taran.
“They had a joint family. Most of the men travelled overseas, so they wanted the women and children to be safe in one house. Also, they loved grandeur. They were superstitious as well. The Chettiars initially lived in the port city of Poompuhar, but their houses were ruined in a tsunami. So they moved inland and built these grand houses but always on a raised foundation just in case they got flooded again!” smiled the guide.
“Eventually, they had to look for prospects elsewhere. Some moved to Chennai; others to Southeast Asia where many from their community had already settled. In fact, in Malaysia and Singapore, Indians are universally called ‘Chittys’,” added Appa.
They visited a Athangudi tile centre to see how the tiles were made. Each tile was handmade; it involved putting cement, sand and coloured oxides on a glass frame. There was no baking; so this was an ecofriendly version of the tiles used in homes. Taran tried his hand at making a freestyle design. “It’s tougher than it looks,” he declared, when his flower design went all wobbly.
Next, they attended a cookery class on Chettiandu cuisine at one of the heritage houses. Their instructor told them that Chettinadu cuisine was more well known these days than these mansions.
“I never thoughts tiles could tell stories!” said Taran, during lunch served on a plantain leaf.
Amma smiled. She raised her cup of refreshing ‘Mor’ and said — “Stories are all around us, some right at our feet.”
