All this jet setting is tiring me out. My feathers are ruffled and have lost their sheen. I needed some downtime...and on my own. I pondered over my options and came to the conclusion that a monastery would be the best bet. Karsha Monastery came up tops. It is the largest and most important one in the Padum Valley of the Zanskar region in Jammu and Kashmir. The Doda river fed by the glacier Drang Drung flows past the monastery.
Off I flew to Zanskar. I was amazed by the sheer beauty of the place. The craggy mountains, the snow, the river...almost everything I saw was mind boggling. I was chilling out, just enjoying the place, trying to get friendly with the local people, checking out their food and so on, when I heard about the Karsha Gustor Festival. I rubbed my wings together in anticipation. I love a good festival. It brings out the best in everyone.
It was to take place in the courtyard of the monastery. Though there was a space set out for tourists, I was warned that I would have to be there early if I wanted a seat with a view. True to form, I was way ahead of time.
Rhythm and moves
I saw lamas greeting the people and welcoming them in. The first in the celebration was the procession of monks with yellow headdresses. They walked round the small courtyard to the accompaniment of music. Then all of a sudden, the drums began to beat, flutes cried out shrilly as the taal took up a desperate beat. All heads turned, and coming down the steps was a black headed monster led by two helpers. Then came a procession of cows, sheep, dogs...the property of the gompa or the monastery.
There were more dances, the most important of the lot being the black hat dance by the monks. This dance was performed to ward off evil forces and to celebrate the victory of good over evil.
A sacrificial cake known as Stoma is cut and finally the effigy of evil is burned.
Though it was a hot day and I was exposed to the elements, it was a great break. The music, the colours and the sights were incredible.
Oh! and I almost forgot. There was an oracle too. Unlike at other times when professionals forecast the future, this time around it is laymen who do the job. After being selected, they are spiritually cleansed and prepared for the day by lamas. I’d say they are good, as they told me that for someone as wise and good looking as myself the future held a lot of promise! How much more accuracy can you expect?
