“One of my friends suggested that the mansions of Chettinad had to be studied, photographed and written about as they are under threat of demolition,” says George Michell. The renowned architect-academic is in Bengaluru to speak about these magnificent mansions in south-eastern Tamil Nadu showcasing European-influenced facades. His talk, an introduction to his new book Mansions of Chettinad , is part of the INTACH lecture series. A major part of the book’s proceeds will be used for INTACH heritage projects.
“I am speaking about the subject for the first time. My book is aimed at mansion owners and endeavours to instil in them the importance of protecting heritage. Not just Chettinad, the book would be relevant to any city which has such heritage buildings that need to be restored and protected,” said Michell.
Michell first came to India as a student of architecture when he was 21, nearly five decades ago. His connect with Karnataka goes back to the 1970s when he dwelt upon the history of the Vijayanagar empire and studied the ruins of Hampi. The Karnataka Archaeology Department also helped Michell’s team camp there for three months and provided all logistics for scores of students who got a glimpse of the stone marvels there for the first time.
“No other place has the kind of diversity in architecture that Karnataka has. Be it the Kadambas and Gangas, Badami Chalukyas, Rashtrakutas, Western Chalukyas, Hoysalas, Vijaynagara, Bahmani or Bijapur Sultanate, every structure is a wonder,” says Michell who not only has studied the Vijayanagar Empire and its architectural and archaeological styles, but has also researched at Badami, Aihole and Pattadakal for 25 years. He returned as a PhD student from London to start his documentation work.
“Nearly 50 years ago as an architecture student from Melbourne, I travelled to India and to see Badami and Aihole. The architecture there was a sight to behold. I walked for hours along the Malaprabha river to Pattadakal and spent time looking at the temples there,” recalls Michell. “I am happy my journey in architecture began with South Asian art history and with that trip to Badami.”
After he returned to Australia Michell realised that his interest in architecture waned while he was eager to study about India and archaeology instead. “I was advised to go the School of Oriental and African Studies (SOAS) in London. There I explained the archaeological importance of Aihole, Badami and Pattadakal to the authorities. That is when I chose the temples of Badami as the topic for my doctoral research.”
Vijayanagar’s granite landscape
The imperial town of Vijaynagar, for instance, has the most extraordinary granite landscapes in Asia, he says.
“The stone splendours here are steeped in history, architecture and archaeology. Australia has no history or antiquity and coming from there I found that the rich material here offered me food for thought,” says Michell, whose 25-year study led to a book, Vijayanagara, a Splendour in Ruins . The book paved the way for institutions, academics and students to follow the Vijaynagar study.
“From 1971 to early 1980s I continued my architectural drawings delving deeper into the works at Badami and Hampi. I simultaneously worked along with photographers who documented nuances of my study. During the early 1980s, there was no telephone or internet and we travelled to every nook and corner to study the history of the ruins.”
Michell is happy that a lot of studies have followed his own.
“The rich archaeology would be there for posterity. The State Tourism Department should at least keep these heritage towns free of garbage, or think of building an airport for better accessibility easy access to people. It is the attitude towards heritage that matters,” he says.
