At no more than 35 kmph, train no. 52171 Gwalior-Sheopur Kalan passenger crosses barren stretches and ravines, covering the 198 km in 12 long hours. The train runs on a 2-ft narrow-gauge line, laid between 1895 and 1909 during the rule of the Scindias, and is the longest such operational service in the world. Now run by North Central Railway, the Gwalior Light Railway remains a lifeline. Each of its seven coaches can seat 35, but every inch of space is taken up. Even the roof is full of passengers. There are no lights or toilets. The fans don’t work. The fare is just ₹45, much lower than the ₹200 on private buses connecting the two cities.
“This is a bullock cart running on a railway track,” says a roof-top traveller unmindful of the threat of a ₹500 fine or three-year imprisonment for the risky ride.
The coaches start filling up from Gosipura, the second station from Gwalior. Till the last stop at Datarda Kalan, the crowd seldom eases. During festive seasons, examinations or any event that sees big crowds, the train shoulders a heavier burden. At times, passengers too lazy to go to a station place large stones on the tracks to slow down the train near their houses and board it, a testing time for the motorman as there is no support staff at hand in case of a derailment.
For the sightseer, the travel offers an unbroken canvas of lush mustard fields and peacocks and occasional glimpses of foxes as the train chugs through the Chambal heartland. The narrow-gauge line will be phased out in five years as work to convert it into broad gauge gets under way. With this, the train will be reduced to a footnote in history.
(Text and images by Prashant Nakwe)
Flag off: The Gwalior-Sheopur Kalan passenger, running on narrow-gauge tracks laid during the late 19th century and early 20th century, gets ready for another 12-hour, 198-km journey at 6.30 a.m.
Overhead dangers: Ducking the British-era bridge over the Uno river between Birpur to Sillipur.
Chasing the shadow: Rooftop travellers play hide and seek with mustard fields en route the Pipalwali Chowk station.
In a tin can: Passengers occupy even the luggage compartment.
Slowing to a crawl: Loaded with passengers, the train enters the Motijheel station.
Now it’s a boat: The train crosses a water channel, Nahar in local language, near the Ikdori station, with another 50 km to its destination.
Gathering steam: The train heading towards Ghosipura from the Gopachal Hill in Gwalior.
Not a speed king: A milkman rides in a relaxed pace near the Badohara crossing, certain that the slow train will never come to overtake him.
End point: At its destination at Sheopur Kalan, the train disgorges passengers.