hether fuelled by an interest in khadi’s long-standing link with the Gandhian ideals of ‘Swadeshi’ production or as an economical way to beat the heat, business in the hand-woven fabric remains brisk in the city.
“We know that summer has started when customers come looking for khadi shirts,” N. Logaprakash, proprietor, Shri Saravana Khadi Bhavan, told The Hindu . “The white khadi shirt, which we procure from weaving societies in Erode, Tirupur, and Coimbatore, is our summer bestseller. Towels sell well when the temperature soars.”
Priced from Rs. 130, the shirt has become synonymous with the political wardrobe in Tamil Nadu, especially when it is worn with the dhoti (‘veshti’ in Tamil).
“Even though Western menswear remains popular, khadi shirts, and dhotis have a steady market among middle class buyers, because of their high breathability that works well for our summers,” said Mr. Logaprakash, whose father P. V. Nataraj, a former weaver from Tirupur, started their business (in Big Bazaar Street and Chathiram Bus Stand) 35 years ago.
“But while you can weave 10 dhotis in a power-loom in a day, you can only get three hand-woven khadi dhotis in that time, which is why they are costlier. The government should help hand-loom weavers by subsidising the making charges,” he added.
At the Gandhiji Khadi Vastralayam in Theradi Bazaar, it is possible to get a wide variety of khadi products that have been adapted to modern tastes.
“Most of the updated fabric is now woven with a 63 per cent khadi and 33 per cent polyester yarn ratio, so that it has become easier to maintain and remains wrinkle-free,” said a sales staff of the 30-year-old store.
“Our customers are from all age groups, and nowadays, you even get dhotis in children’s sizes for festive wear. Our khadi dhotis (of the four muzham measure) are priced from Rs. 70 to Rs. 582. Seeing the popularity of dhotis with zippers and pockets made by big mills, the smaller weaving companies are trying out these styles,” he added.
Nearly, all the khadi stores supplement garments with a stock of organic herbal cosmetics, ethnic jewellery, and devotional items such as incense sticks and lamps.
Bringing a touch of haute couture to khadi is Fabindia, a 50-year-old platform for traditional Indian textiles that has of late added an online portal to add to its 210-store base across seven countries.
At its Shastri Road showroom, Indo-Western formals and casuals are in abundance. For the men, the short and long hem kurtas may be paired with cotton pyjamas or close-fitted churidar trousers, with sleeveless linen Nehru jackets. Women can choose from organic khadi saris, salwar suits, mix-and-match tunic shirts and dupattas.
“Most of our customers are tourists or non-resident Indians,” said a store co-ordinator. “Many people like to take back our products as gifts for friends abroad.”
The Tamil Nadu Khadi and Village Industries Board is a State-run initiative to promote indigenous production of handloom textiles and handicrafts. Its products are sold through Khadi Kraft outlets.
The yarn and textile manufacturing units produced Rs. 4.16-lakh worth yarn and clothes in 2012.
Our customers are from all age groups, and nowadays, you even get dhotis in children’s sizes for festive wear.
N. Logaprakash,
Proprietor, Shri Saravana Khadi Bhavan