There is no apparent French connection to the Thoothukudi Macaroons. In this port city of Tamil Nadu, legend has it that it was the Portuguese sailors who introduced this sweet, a coconut and almond-filled mouthful delight, some time in the 14th century. It was later appropriated and localised, and now goes by the moniker Thoothukudi macaroons. Another legend revolves around how the Portuguese took some Tamil labourers as slaves, and taught them how to make macaroons.
The conical-shaped macaroons have a resemblance to a North-Indian savoury variant, samosa, but have little in common to the flat, sandwich counterparts devoured elsewhere in the world. As was reported in this very paper a few years ago, the macaroons have a certain je ne sais quoi , which makes them a hit with gourmands. The Thoothukudi macaroons have an enviable following, which takes it around the globe. With over 100 baking units and 50 bakery outlets, the macaroons are exported to Australia, France, the U.S. and countries in the Gulf. They retail at Rs. 750 a kg.
A bakery unit is headed by a master, under whose baton the macaroons are baked to perfection. The oldest baker in town is 80-year-old Dorariaj, who works at Dhanalakshmi Bakery, again the oldest in the city. He says the quality of macaroons is declining with each passing day. The reason? The tendency of bakers to reduce the cashew component in the macaroons.
Dorairaj should know a thing or two about quality. He had honed his skills at the Ceylon Bakery, the first bakery that introduced macaroons to the Thoothukudi public.
(Text and Photos by Shaju John)
Claim to fame: Besides its port, pearls and salt pans, Thoothukudi is famous for its macaroons, which many believe were introduced here by the Portuguese.
Conical treats: The sweets have three major ingredients: eggs, cashew nuts and sugar. They are crunchy on the outside, and have gooey cashew crumbs inside.
‘Eggsacting’ standards: Eggs with low viscosity and thin shells are preferred for making the confection. As one rotten egg can spoil an entire batch, selecting eggs of the best quality is an important part of the process.
Eggs with low viscosity and thin shells are preferred for making the confection. As one rotten egg can spoil an entire batch, selecting eggs of the best quality is an important part of the process.
Key ingredient: The quality and quantity of cashew nuts used is also key to the process. Most bakeries source high-grade nuts from Kerala. Any reduction in the quantity of nuts can affect the quality of the macaroons.
Attention to detail: Mixing sugar and egg white is a delicate process and supervised by the master in each bakery.
Shaping up: The next step is filling the final mix of egg white, sugar and cashew in a cone made of butter paper.
Tryst with fire: The mix is then squeezed on to metal trays, which are lined up for baking.
The last step: Raw macaroons are then put into ovens for baking. Specially made chambers maintain an uniform temperature for hours to ensure the cookies are evenly baked.
Grand master: Dorairaj, 80, the oldest master of macaroons in Thoothukudi, explains what goes into the making of a perfect specimen.