How potato biryani became a signature dish of Kolkata

Shahanshah Mirza says his great-great-grandfather, the Nawab of Awadh, contributed to the city’s cuisine

April 16, 2016 10:56 pm | Updated October 18, 2016 02:10 pm IST - Kolkata:

Shahanshah Mirza

Shahanshah Mirza

Over a century and half ago, in 1856, the Nawab of Awadh, was forced by the British to abdicate his throne. Pinning his hopes on the British sense of justice and fair play, he arrived in Calcutta to place his case before the then Governor General of India Lord Dalhousie. Stonewalled there, he made plans to appear before the Queen and the British Parliament. But that was not to be.

Amid ongoing negotiations between his representatives and the Queen in London, the Sepoy Mutiny broke out in India. It not only dashed his hopes of retrieving Awadh, but also led to his house arrest in Fort William, as the British feared that he could become a rallying point for the rebels.

Released from captivity after 26 months and given a purse of Rs. 12 lakh, Wajid Ali Shah set about creating a miniature Lucknow in Metiabruz, a locality in Kolkata.

Palaces were built, gardens were laid and a regular court was set up as he brought an entourage.

Centre of learning

Some of the best poets and musicians of the time were attracted to Metiabruz as it became the centre of learned and talented men. Metiabruz would then often be referred to as Chhota Lucknow.

The Nawabi ambience was complete with royal pastimes like wrestling, kite flying, cockfighting and fine dining. Gourmet delights such as potato biryani, sheermal, korma and shahi tukra, were prepared to perfection by the talented bawarchis (chefs) who accompanied the Nawab. The unique dishes of Metiabruz are being recreated at an event in the city this month.

In a chat with The Hindu, Shahanshah Mirza, the great-great-grandson of the deposed Nawab said the dishes have now become part of the city. He said his family chose to make the city their home even after the birth of Pakistan.

“We had expected the Indian government to give us liberal grants after Independence… but that never happend,” he said. “After that a part of the family decided to go to Pakistan but my grandfather Ghazanfar Mirza decided to stay back.”

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