Be it Glastonbury, the world’s largest greenfield festival of contemporary performing arts, or the sought-after Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival in the summer, these are where musicians, lakhs of attendees and even style trackers find their rhythm. These shows are known as much for their headlining acts, as for those who make heads turn by flaunting their inner Bohemian.
Our own Margazhi, the winter sonata, is about free-spiritedness, in creativity and clothes. For too long, we have been talking about how it binds us to tradition, to a structure. But, it is also a festival that helps artistes and art lovers find themselves in the contours of ragas and the vigour of talas.
So, if the endearing M.S. Subbulakshmi found comfort in her favourite deep shade of blue, the string of jasmine around her neatly-tied bun, the bright kumkum on her forehead and the sparkling diamond nose stud created a look synonymous with meditative music.
The suave G.N. Balasubramaniam was known as much for his crystal-clear rendition as his kadukkan (earring), while Ariyakudi Ramanuja Iyengar’s angavastrams with a thick zari border went well with his robust notes.
Cut to today. Reigning vocalist Sanjay Subrahmanyan likes to keep it simple. Always clad in a half-sleeve white cotton shirt and veshti, his stage appearance is in stark contrast to his elaborate repertoire.
Popular singing duo Ranjani-Gayathri’s coordinated effort doesn’t stop at music; it extends to the colour of the sisters’ elegant sari and blouse, making for a seamless appeal. Like her soft, soothing voice, Bombay Jayashri’s sartorial sense reflects a minimalist approach, both in the choice of jewellery and sari.
Trichur Brothers Ramkumar and Srikrishna Mohan’s youthfulness comes through in their coloured kurta-pyjamas with subtle thread work. Vishaka Hari extends the aesthetics of harikatha to her personal appearance, performing in nine-yard pattu saris.
Walk into a dance conference and you sure would be taken up by the ethnic splendour. Homespun, textured and vintage — most dancers warm up to these terms when it comes to fabric and styling.
While striking colour combinations add to the mood, the choice of accessories enhances the traditional appeal, with terracotta, oxidised silver, multi-coloured beads and temple jewellery being the favourites. Many dancers integrate these into their costumes for a touch of innovation.
Now, to the scene off-stage — the outfits of many walking into sabhas are worthy of an encore. If you are the kind who prefers to fit into the ambience, go for the timeless ‘South Indian look’. But, if you wish to stand out like a refreshing swara in the characteristic Kalyani alapana, it’s time to rock the classic. How about teaming a Madras-check pavadai with a monochrome anarkali? Try a shirt blouse with the pattu sari. Get a feel of the old-world with a puff-sleeve blouse, an arm-length, closed-neck one, or one with a V-neck and ribbon knots at the back. Pair these with a Kanchi or Chettinad cotton sari, and you will be glamorous enough to rule the occasion.
Without a proper hair-do, no look is complete. Since it’s a festival that celebrates the classical arts, go for a braid or a tidy low bun. If you have short hair, think extensions, which can be covered with an elegant floral jadai or a simple kunjalam and rakodi . Though December is not the season for malli poo , you still get them.
You could also try other flowers, but take care to not end up looking like a bouquet. Bunch them up and pin on one side of the braid or bun. Avoid heavy make-up. Remember, you are the audience, not the artiste. Dab a light coat of foundation, apply a dash of kohl or eyeliner and lipstick, wear a bindi, and you are ready to sabha hop.
Style thukkadas
Don’t wear heavy jhumkas, they will swing more than the swaras as you nod your head in appreciation.
Avoid walking into the sabha canteens wearing stilettos; you could slip over the sambar spilled on the floor.
Don’t keep tala if you are wearing a dozen bangles; you could be starting your own thani avarthanam.
Avoid loud colours and blingy accessories; when the lights dim, the spotlight will be on you.
If the performance is boring, update your fashion sense; look around to see who’s wearing what.
