“I stand here in my place, with my foot on the rock below, and whichever way it may blow, I meet it face to face, as a brave man meets his foe,” said WH Longfellow.
Longfellow’s verse echoes languidly as one enters that veritable time capsule that is Zaanse Schans or the windmill village in Northern Holland. The huge green windmills stand resolutely against the chilly winds, almost welcoming the onset of the autumn season and with it, carrying the strong whiff of chocolates and fresh bread. Just a 40-minute bus ride away from Amsterdam Centraal,, is Zaanse Schans offering a glimpse into the bygone era of the Zaan District of the 18th and 19th centuries. Zaanse Schans was the name chosen for the reconstruction of the old Zaan district neighbourhood, where “sconce” or Schans meant - a sanctuary or a safe space. The reconstructed space, replete with wooden houses, fields and farmsteads,commemorates beautifully the way the community lived and worked.
This is one of the oldest industrial areas in Western Europe and a testimony to the Dutch Golden age. One can easily climb into one of the mills and see at close quarters the power of the wind at work for just a few euros. Out of the 600 windmills that formed the backbone of the Zaan District entrepreneurs, only six remain in working condition, comprising a mustard mill, a couple of oil mills, two sawmills and a dye mill. The Schans also offers a sneak peek into the industrial history of the region. In fact, the best way to see the monumental economic growth of the region is through the Zaans Museum that is just around the corner. From the impressive collection of machines from the early 20th century, the paintings of artist Claude Monet to a glimpse into the sartorial sense of the old Zaankanters (as the residents of the Zaan were called), the museum has a lot to share. And if you hold a special liking for Verkade chocolates then it is a good idea to opt for the Verkade experience, which is also housed inside the museum.
The place offers free experiences such as a dekko of the spice museum to cheese tasting sessions. Yet the one thing one must not miss is the clogs museum. There you can witness the making of the clog featuring everything from ice clogs, to painted clogs and carved clogs. The clog museum is a truly colourful experience and is also the perfect place to pick up a pair if you have a liking for wooden shoes. And if the hunger pangs grow strong while you walk away in the Zaans, just step into one of the Dutch pancake restaurants.
A special recommendation is the apple pancake, for its sheer simplicity and taste. Suffice to say, a day in the Zaanse Schans will not disappoint the tourist, the poet or the artist in you!
