We’ve all heard about high-street brands like Zara and H&M joining the sustainability bandwagon, by setting up in-store recycling initiatives. In a world where fast fashion and constantly-changing trends are contributing to environmental degradation, here are three designers who have collaborated with consumer waste fabric makers to create their latest collections for Lakmé Fashion Week Winter Festive 2017’s initiative, #Restart Fashion. Jaspreet Chandok, Head of Fashion at IMG Reliance, explains that while other showcases by Sunita Shankar, Anavila Misra and Gaurav Jai Gupta attempt to revive indigenous crafts, #restartfashion is a unique take on sustainability — with the newest innovations. “For example, Sohaya Misra has worked with Anandi where fabrics are broken down into yarn and then reconstructed again; a notch higher than normal recycling and upcycling.” Brands featured earlier — like Geetanjali Woollens and Conserve India — will also be part of the Sustainable Fashion and Indian Textile Day on August 17, in Mumbai.
Doodlage by Kriti Tula X Conserve India
The Doodlage Winter Festive-2017 collection - Dreams and Dystopia - is combined with statement pieces created out of Tula’s collaboration with Conserve India, which uses discarded poly bags collected by a community of rag-pickers who are involved in the initiative as well.
Printed, waterproof material created by Conserve India have taken shape as corsets, headgears, accessories in shades of earthy marsala, navy blue, sap green, charcoal and flighty, lighter under tones of pastel blue, steel grey and beige.
Known for her work with upcycling industrial waste, and organic materials such as banana fabric, this season will see her working with sourced corn fabric for the first time. Upcycled mounds of discarded industrial fabrics, with quirky patches and elegant embroidery patterns, have gone into creating a short collection for our first drop of Autumn-Winter this year. “The techniques used include patchwork, panelling and hand-done embroidery. A busy under-layer adorned in prints/patchwork/embroidery/weaving is a representation of the teeming, urban chaos, on which are super-imposed delicate florals of hope,” says Tula.
Slogans and typography around the theme of each collection have been the brand’s style, and this one is no different. Slogans like ‘Tree-hugger’, to ‘Aren’t we all more than just a like’, or ‘Get up a follow your dreams’ make a statement and are aimed at urging young-adults to actively associate with causes close to their hearts, and do more than a ‘like-and-share’ on social platforms.
In the ₹2,500 to ₹18,000 range, www.doodlage.in
Chola by Sohaya Misra X Anandi Enterprises
Her strong desire to work with black and white fuelled her latest line for LFW, bringing out the traditional easy-to-wear-and-carry, edgy nature of her silhouettes. Misra’s love for indigenous fabrics is well-known and can be seen in her earlier collections in organic cotton and pure linen.
“This collection became a medium for me to explore recycled fabrics from Recca (the recycled cotton brand from Tamil Nadu-based Anandi Enterprises). The fabrics aided in manifesting our versatile styles that have an easy breezy feel, and leave a lot of room for layering,” says Misra who has worked with diverse textures in twills, checks and herringbones, and woven solids to create a mix of blazers, trousers, shirts, skirts and deconstructed shirts.
The concept of dualism, intrinsic to the black and white palette was particularly exciting for her. “It leaves space for thoughtful interpretation, and encourages conversations on the beauty of contrast.” Two opposing forces yet complementary, Misra believes the two shades work together to bring in balance, inherent to the concept of sustainability.
₹5,000 upwards, at www.facebook.com/Cholathelabel/
Anuj Bhutani X Geetanjali Woollens
Bhutani has given a refreshing take to his signature light-weight designs in khadi, linen, and cotton, by working with recycled woollens and wool blends this time around. Comprising relaxed oversized, yet tailored garments, with a unisex appeal, the collection is built on the notion of bundling up in layers of deeply tactile textures. Apart from cottons and linens, you will see recycled wool in double breasted safari jackets, long coats, tunics and slightly chunky knits in muted blues and greys with a hint of warm earthy tones. “Its not completely unconnected from our previous collections, but more of a coherent extension in a new manner,” he says.
A challenging yet interesting experience, working with wool gave a new perspective to his patterns. “We predominantly make clean, minimal key separates that can be layered up or worn as individual pieces. The tufted texture of wool flows cohesively in our silhouettes, along with other fabrics, whether it is a cropped woollen pullover teamed up with some large shirt and relaxed fit trousers, or a midi cape in wool thrown over a snug turtle neck,” says Bhutani. Speaking about how the sustainable fashion movement is taking shape, he explains how designer Labels like Péro, mainstream fashion brands such as People Tree (UK), and a number of small indie labels such as P.E.L.L.A and Antar Agni have started the revolution in the country. “These labels have managed to shake off the tag and shown that sustainable fashion can be glamorous, trendy and environmental friendly at the same time, and most importantly ethical,” he says.
₹5,500 to ₹20,000, at Hauz Khas Village, New Delhi, and anujbhutanishop.in
