Come Ramzan and Hyderabad dons a festive look. For the Muslim community, the shopping frenzy and celebratory mood is set to continue during the wedding season that begins in July.
For Sabeeha Anjum of Mehdipatnam, this year’s Id-ul-Fitr is a special one as she gets ready for a family wedding. Think wedding and traditional jewellery takes centrestage. The stars of a Muslim wedding are the stunning Lacha karan phool, Chaandbali, Tirmani, Satlada, Jugni, Jhumar and the royal Nizami haar , all part of the traditional jewellery collection. Naheed Quraishi got married 27 years ago but the memories of her wedding day are still fresh in her mind. Decked up in the traditional Hyderabadi jewellery, her classic look earned her many compliments. The tradition continued when her daughter Haneen got married last September (in the photos along with her husband Faraaz.) Adorned with traditional jewels, the young bride was the cynosure of all eyes. “Whatever may be fashionable, brides like to dress up in traditional Hyderabadi jewellery,” points out Naheed. While girls like to experiment with diamonds for their Walima (reception), they prefer wearing traditional gold on the wedding day.
At Jawaharatul Osman Jewellers in Abids, a couple looks dazed by the dazzle of the traditional pieces. The jewellery store exudes a royal feeling accompanied by warmth. Azhar Abdul Lateef shares that the store has completed 50 years. “My grandfather Osman Ahmed Jowahari used to make and supply jewellery for the Nizam,” he recalls. The store was initially at Zamrud Mahal and moved to its present location 18 years ago. Interestingly, while Azhar’s paternal grandfather is the oldest jeweller of Hyderabad, his maternal grandfather is the oldest jeweller of Mumbai. His father, 65-year-old Abdul Latif Osman handles the administrative aspect, his mother looks after the designing department.
Although the designs are fixed, some change pearls with emerald drops or ruby drops in almas (uncut diamonds) sets. “These traditional designs have been continuing for decades. For every Hyderabadi bride, Lacha karan phool (choker and earring set) , Satlada (seven-stringed layered necklace) and Phanas ke kade are compulsory. Iske bina Hyderabad ki shaadi tho adhuri hai ,” he smiles.
Naheed reveals Hyderabadis follow the custom of wearing traditional jewellery; those who can’t afford gold and real gems opt for artificial jewellery of the same designs. Azhar expects jewellery sales to pick up in a few days. “NRIs from Middle East have holidays after Ramzan and weddings are planned so that the relatives can attend them. Most of the weddings happen in July and August and then there is a break, before picking up in November,” he elaborates.
Wedding jewellery isn’t all about brides. Naheed says men too flaunt jewellery with grace. Azhar observes the Nizam kith and kin would dress up royally. “There are the sherwani buttons and a five or seven-layered chain made of basra moti.” Hyderabad’s milieu has changed over the years but when it comes to wedding jewellery, tradition clearly rules.
