The immense success of Black Panther , Marvel’s box-office smashing superhero film that released earlier this year, and the recent Avengers: Infinity War , has shifted the sartorial world’s attention to Africa. No longer is the continent’s fashion just a ‘trend’ for international designers to adapt, but rather a recognition of its visual aesthetic, which is a melting pot of ancient folklore, lost civilisations and diverse tribes. Much like costume designer Ruth E Carter’s vision for the fictional characters of Wakanda, which melded inspirations from her travels and research into tribal attire.
South African fashion influencer, Robyn Cooke, says the film deeply resonated with her. “I believe its impact is felt on many levels. It begins with pride in Africa, and the desire to be just like those incredible, strong warriors,” she says. “The difference now — standing out in your traditional African wear is looked upon with awe, rather than the sniffy ‘poor cousin’ of the past. See Tiffany Haddish, who wore her traditional Eritrean costume to the Oscars this year and was celebrated for it. When a traditional African look beats Givenchy or Valentino on a red carpet, you know you are seeing the Wakanda effect.”
However, aside from the triumphs of Black Panther ’s costume department, it is important to recognise that contemporary fashion emerging from Africa is not quite as theatrical as the Dora Milaje outfits in the film, but just as impressive. And a growing tide of fashion enthusiasts — from British supermodel Naomi Campbell to former American First Lady Michelle Obama — is rallying behind the movement. Tarryn Oppel, Marie Claire South Africa’s Fashion Director, is one of many voices praising the continent’s fashion industry. “The western world has interpreted our fashion on a global scale for many years, while Africa watched. Now, African fashion is slowly but surely finding its rightful place in the design world,” she says.
Oppel believes “our cultural reference and strong heritage” are a strong point. One of African fashion’s most striking attributes is its vibrant regional prints. “[Earlier, these were] printed on expensive silk by European design houses and sold for thousands, with barely any understanding of where they come from. African designers have the knowledge and ability to interpret the prints to form newer ones, pushing boundaries,” she adds. Recent years have seen pan-African designers evolve — inspired as much by tribal ancestry as their developing urban cities — and no longer draining out to the fashion capitals of the western world. With a heritage of ‘slow design’, building sustainable businesses is a focus now, as is supporting the local workforce.
(The Cape Town-based writer is Fashion Content Producer at Meyhem Content Creators. Follow on Instagram @alexischaffemey.)
Here are nine African designers who embody this strong sense of self
Maki Oh, Nigeria
Maki Osakwe
Maki Osakwe is the first African designer to be invited to the White House by fan of the brand, Michelle Obama, and her brand, Maki Oh, founded in 2010, has been featured in numerous publications including Vogue, Elle, Glamour and Forbes. Fusing traditional techniques with contemporary construction, it is a rising star in the global fashion scene, worn by a growing number of celebrities including Lupita N’yongo, Solange Knowles and Thandi Newton. “We are paying homage to our heritage and carrying on the conversation by updating our processes and techniques. African fashion is the current fad and I think it’s cool because we are now telling our stories, from within,” says Osakwe. Details: makioh.com
Kisua, Africa
One of Africa’s most influential online boutique brands — which shot to fame after Beyoncé stepped out in their geometric print ‘Daria’ coat in 2014 — Kisua was founded with the intention of showing Africa’s brightest talent to the world. It collaborates with a host of artists and designers to create capsule collections. Shipping to America and Europe, the brand provides a global platform to African designers who would otherwise have a limited customer base. Combining traditional fabrics with a global perspective, Kisua offers contemporary silhouettes. Details: kisua.com
David Tlale, South Africa
The ‘King’ of South African fashion, David Tlale — who got his big break after winning a competition for emerging design — today dresses some of Africa’s most celebrated women. In 2012, he also crossed the pond to be the first South African designer to show solo at New York Fashion Week. A showman renowned for his spectacular fashion shows, Tlale most famously transformed the Nelson Mandela bridge into a private runway for one of his elaborate collections, that plays with colour, texture and embellishments. Details: davidtlale.com
Taibo Bacar, Mozambique
Having built one of the leading brands in the continent, Taibo Bacar is inspired by the vibrancy of his city, Maputo. He favours feminine silhouettes and luxury fabrics to create his high-fashion womenswear collections. Details: taibobacar.com
MaXhosa, South Africa
(Left) Laduma Ngxokolo; a model posing with MaXhosa line of clothing
Laduma Ngxokolo is one of Africa’s greatest success stories. Launching his premium knitwear label, MaXhosa by Laduma, in 2010, he has endeavoured to create an aesthetic that would appeal to his Xhosa culture. Since then Ngxokolo has received international acclaim, furthered his fashion studies with a scholarship at Central St Martins in London, and attracted global customers thanks to Vogue Italia’s invitation to show in Milan in 2015. MaXhosa is a true reflection of how African fashion can transcend the hum-drum of ‘trend’ to offer its own unique style to the world. Details: maxhosa.co.za
Adama Paris, Senegal
Senegalese designer Adama Ndiaye left a banking career in Europe to return home and start her fashion label. Inspired by global cities and the dynamic women who inhabit them, it is fitting that Adama Paris is stocked in fashion metropolises like New York, Tokyo, London and Paris. With a proudly African style — evinced by her use of colour and print — her pieces are contemporary, with on-trend silhouettes. Details: adamaparis.com
KLuK CGDT, South Africa
Design duo, Malcolm Kluk and Christiaan Gabriel du Toit, is the creative force behind award-winning South African womenswear brand, KLuK CGDT. Based in Cape Town, the label is a firm favourite of local fashion icons and has scooped up an armful of awards for their stunning red carpet style. Creating several trend-setting ready-to-wear collections a year, they also produce bridal and couture gowns. “Africa is the new frontier — European and American fashion centres are saturated in terms of brand exposure, and Asia has been in the news for a while. There is a sense of celebration in our use colour and print, a desirable naivety in our industry, which opens up many possibilities in design, and we are not bogged down by what has been or what is ‘trending’,” says Kluk. Details: klukcgdt.com
Kat van Duinen, South Africa
Describing her brand as ‘confident, sophisticated and unapologetically stylish’, Kat van Duinen has captured the market with her eponymous leather and fashion house. Her signature exotic leather pieces and modern clothing line are timeless in their appeal, and exceptional in their finish. From python skin bags to delicate silk dresses, Duinen offers everyday luxury with quality craftsmanship. “I find it exciting to see this ‘African Renaissance’. The rest of the world had boxed the continent for centuries; now there is a perception of what Africa is and how its fashion looks,” she says. Details: katvanduinen.com
Adele Dejak, Kenya
Inspired by regional tribes, textiles and cultural elements, Adele Dejak’s collection of handcrafted jewellery, bags and accessories is testament to the bold beauty of African design. Sourcing her selected raw materials from all over the continent, she assembles her creations in her workshop in Nairobi, which aims to sustain local talent. Details: adeledejak.com
Head wraps and prints
When Black Panther released, Nairobi-based bespoke suit designer and fashion blogger, Franklin Saiyalel, received phone calls from prospective customers asking him if he could recreate the Dashiki suits Chadwick Boseman wore in the film. Though happy about the attention Africa is getting at the moment, he says the fashion renaissance has already been under way, with more locals embracing the aesthetic of their heritage. He largely credits West Africa for the development. “When you think of African fashion, what comes to mind is Nigeria [and the] Congo — ladies in head wraps and dresses with African print. They have shown how you can make modern, cool-looking [pieces] using African design,” he says. “They are doing it well, and other African people are wearing it, other countries embracing it.”
Saiyalel’s pick of influencers on Instagram:
Trevor Stuurman, South Africa @trevor_stuurman: This photographer and stylist has shot at some of the world’s largest fashion shows, and specialises in brightly-lit street portraits featuring vibrant African prints.
Igee Okafor, New York/Nigeria @igeeokafor: This Nigeria-born New Yorker runs an eponymous lifestyle blog focussing on men’s fashion, featuring sharp silhouettes and grooming tips.
Diana Opoti, Kenya @dianaopoti: This TV producer was drawn to fashion out of a desire to showcase local talent — after the success of her 100 Days of African Fashion campaign on social media. Opoti has founded Designing Africa Collective, which showcases designers from across the continent.
Denola Grey, Nigeria @denolagrey: This media personality and style blogger models contemporary labels set against the backdrop of everyday Nigeria.
Brian Babu, Kenya @brianbabu: Stylist to African celebrities like Nigerian hip-hop artist Ice Price and Kenyan Afro pop band Sauti Sol, Babu combines local chic with global trends.
(With inputs from Sindhuri Nandhakumar)
