The finale of India Couture Week 2017 is Manish Malhotra’s and, in his fourth such outing, he is bringing a collection called ‘Sensual Affair’ to the ramp.
In our country, couture is synonymous with weddings, so it’s surprising when he warns us not to expect a very “bridal” collection. “It’s because couture is changing, the Indian bride is changing and she’s looking beyond the red and gold,” explains Malhotra. And this makes him quite happy.
“What I’m really enjoying today is that brides are bringing diversity into their trousseau,” he says. “They are going from handloom to bling to fun and then traditional again with so much ease, I’m enjoying how they adapt to every look — I call it ‘mixed brain’ fashion. That’s why I’m skipping the predictable lehengas and typical colours this year.”
Changing times
So what can we expect to see at Couture Week? Malhotra says that this time, he is not centering the whole show around one style or one motif. “We are going to have a wide palette of colour, texture and embroidery, rather like an international show,” he adds.
A sneak peek at the collection shows us heavy embroidery in distinctly non-traditional cream and gold, with trailing capes replacing the dupatta . Today, the demographic at fashion shows has changed, explains Malhotra, because it’s no longer about the 300 people at the show, but about the three million people watching online. “It’s a showcase of everything I’m producing this season, in couture. We’re doing a wide range of options that will appeal to many, and that’s just good business.”
Balancing act
The ‘business of fashion’ is a recurring phrase when talking to the designer, who has focused hard on building a successful business alongside his creative endeavours. When questioned though, he is as effusive as ever. “I am one of those people who has learnt everything the hard way,” he laughs. “It’s all self-taught, since I haven’t formally studied design, and now I’m married to my work. But creativity always comes first — so I’m a designer first and a businessman second,” he clarifies.
But he’s always had an eye on the numbers. “I’ve never been obsessed with whether the people at my fashion shows were criticising or applauding. My main concern was, ‘is this collection going to sell?’ That was the true test; if people liked it enough to put their money on it,” he explains.
So how does one compare to the other? “In films, I’m 27 years old and, with my label, it’s only been 12 years, so it’s far younger and, hence, more exciting! The movies I end up doing are mostly out of the relationships I’ve formed and the people I can’t say no to. From a business point of view, it’s not like anyone is going to buy an extra sari I make just because I am designing for films. They are two very different aspects of myself,” says Malhotra.
From the headines of the film industry to the ground reality of sales figures, he clearly has a keen eye for both business and Bollywood. Add some demanding brides-to-be to the mix, and we have a designer who seems to have found the perfect balance between head, heart and art.
The designer will be presenting the closing show of India Couture Week 2017, on July 30, in New Delhi
