On a white muslin fabric, delicate badla work speaks of the workmanship. Fabrics with fine badla work like the one Abdul Qadar shows us is supplied to leading designers like Sabyasachi Mukherjee.
In the Old City, one is likely to come across many shops that are more than a hundred years old. Retail stores have mushroomed over the years and not everyone lives up to the tall claims they make. Some store owners indulge in name dropping to add value to a garment. Then, there are those whose work is genuinely in demand for craftsmanship.
Afzal Miyan Karchobwale at Lad Bazaar, established by Haji Sahab and now run by his son Afzal and grandson Abdul Qadar, is trying its best to recreate old designs in zardosi, farsi work, ‘lampi’ lace, kamdani and other techniques. A catalogue shows the designs they worked on for textiles restored and showcased during the renovation of Chowmahalla Palace.
Abdul Qadar has an MBA in finance. He worked with an MNC briefly, but felt he could use his skills to take the family business a step further. “The more I saw the photographs of unique patterns our craftsmen have designed all these years, I realised the value of it and the need for this work to continue,” he says. Rohit Bal, Ahmedabad-based textile expert Asif Shaikh, Sabyasachi Mukherjee and several Hyderabad-based designers take this store’s help for zardosi, badla and farsi work for collections showcased at fashion weeks.
Samples of lampi work in silver, gold and rose gold coloured threads proudly adorn the store’s entrance. You’ll also find buttons, from wooden to wood with stones, pearl buttons to those with colour stones. A few patterns are replicas of buttons used during the Nizam era, Abdul tells us.
Some of the farsi work fabrics find takers in the Europe market. “My father and grandfather have exhibited unique motifs made using this method at a few exhibitions abroad. European buyers don’t like glitter, so they like the farsi work,” he says.
In contrast, he shows us a maroon carpet with velvety finish, offset with golden-hued zardosi work. “These patterns are unique. Everything is handmade and it takes a few months. Our people, who like glitter, buy these for weddings to seat the bride,” he says. They’ve shipped similar bridal carpets to California.
While you may find many patterns in zardosi and badla, the store refrains from doing animal or human figures. “My grandfather told me it goes against Islam. So till date we avoid doing anything in animal or human motifs,” says Abdul.
You’d find things from Rs.50 to 50,000 at this store. The more laborious and unique the motif and technique, the price goes up.
While Abdul looks after the day-to-day running of the store, he is eager to document all the unique patterns and techniques for posterity. “We have a sample of each motif at home. Some of the designs are so intricate that it’s tough to recreate them today,” he says.
What: Badla, zardosi, farsi and lampi lace work.
Where: Abdul Miyan Karchobwale, Lad Bazaar
