It's such a pity there's no Platform 9 3/4 at Fort William… it's only a tiny railway station — not a patch on the mighty King's Cross — and it's positively heaving with Harry Potter and steam-train enthusiasts. But, the train's there all right, looking like a glossy, plump, black-and-scarlet caterpillar, sending up a regal plume of smoke, admired and photographed by dozens of fawning muggles.
Those of us that have sensibly booked well ahead, smugly board our carriage, while others anxiously worry the much-harassed chap at the Scotrail-counter, who sadly has no authority to issue tickets for the Jacobite Steam Train, aka the world-famous Hogwarts Express.
All set
There are plenty of grins when the train pulls out of the station; it's hard to tell if it's the Potter-effect (some of the lovely, vintage carriages have actually starred in the movies, though a different red engine was used) or just the mind-blowing scenery that unfolds minutes after leaving the not-particularly pretty town… Scones and tea — instead of wizard-world chocolate frogs and cauldron cakes — come around to the first-class (we are slumming it in second), but we are promised a real treat when the train gets to Glenfinnan Station.
But before that, it crosses the famous Glenfinnan Viaduct that featured in more than one movie — remember the memorable bit in “The Chamber of Secrets” where the Weasley's flying Ford-Anglia chases the train, and performs those stomach-churning loop-the-loops? Built in 1901, standing over a 100 feet tall, with 21 graceful arches, this concrete viaduct was originally derided for its dull-grey colour, but today, it's a minor celebrity!
There's a palpable, electric excitement even as the train approaches the sweeping arches. People are leaning out of windows (though implicitly warned not to), cameras in hand. It's distinctly chilly up here in the highlands, even without those soul-sucking Dementors, and as a swirling mist blurs outlines, it feels spookily like a film set…
The ‘star' of the journey
Two ticks later, we're there… The train obligingly slows down to let us savour the few precious minutes across the viaduct. It's all incredibly atmospheric — the comforting chug-a-chug of the steam-engine, the breathtaking views across Loch Shiel, with the majestic Glenfinnan Monument at its head, hemmed in by a necklace of towering mountains, all wearing their bright-green shawls of summer foliage. Flashes go off from every window, sooty-smoke gently billows up into a moodily overcast sky, and the grins get markedly wilder…
At the beautifully appointed Glenfinnan Station, the hungry (that's us!) head to the well-preserved, elegant dining car, while the rail enthusiasts marvel at the West-Highland-line exhibition. Biting into sumptuous carrot cakes, hungrily inhaling lungfuls of refreshingly crisp mountain air, we board the train for still more impressive coastal views along the way to Mallaig.
The 84-mile round-trip is definitely magical, and Mallaig — though a busy fishing port — is, thankfully, far lovelier than commercialised Fort William. The scarlet Hogwarts Express never comes here, though… thanks to artistic liberty and some serious scrambling of route-maps, it departs from London, heading up to the far North West Scotland, before ending up at the Hogwarts School, filmed at Alnwick castle, in North East England.
But, these trifling details don't deter Potter-fans, who come here by the steam train, on their obligatory Potter pilgrimage. And, lately, there are so many flocking up to these parts, that we seriously think J.K. Rowling ought to be called the ‘Mother of Scottish Tourism', just like Sir Walter Scott, who, back in the early 19th Century was hailed its Father!
Chug along!
The Jacobite Steam train runs from Fort William to Mallaig in the summer months (May to October). For fares, dates and tickets, please visit http://www.westcoastrailways.co.uk/jacobite/Jacobite_Details.html
Fort William can be easily reached by train — take the Caledonian Sleeper from London or regular Scot-rail services from Edinburgh / Glasgow
Look out for the ‘star' — Glenfinnan Viaduct, but don't miss the ‘extras' too — Ben Nevis, Britain's highest mountain, Glenfinnan monument, the carriages, and if you're really lucky, the conductor present during the filming!
