The glory of Orugallu

The natural, historical and architectural glory of Warangal captivates historians, filmmakers and the regular tourist

December 18, 2015 03:54 pm | Updated 03:54 pm IST - HYDERABAD

Devotees at the Thousand Pillar temple Photo: M. Murali

Devotees at the Thousand Pillar temple Photo: M. Murali

HYDERABAD: The scene at the Secunderabad railway station on a sunny Sunday morning, as one sees the Kaghaznagar Express arrive, is reminiscent of the holiday season. There are kids piggybacking on their parents’ shoulders, food stuff flawlessly packed in steel tins, big crowds waiting to jump into the general compartment and porters murmuring, ‘side, side’ as they weave in and out of the crowds.

We are on our way to Kazipet, enroute to historic Warangal, or Orugallu as it was once called. But more on that later. At Kazipet there are taxis and autos to take but the bus seems to be the best bet for a wholesome city tour. The arches in Hanumakonda, located between Kazipet and Warangal, bear testimony to the Kakatiya rulers’ presence; their architectural style is reflected in the arches of the churches and several other monuments in the region. A little ahead, you spot the expansive premises of the Kakatiya University, in the midst of a bustling neighbourhood of malls, shopping centres and the Hanumakonda bus stand. A must see in Hanumakonda is the historic 1000-pillar temple that’s been a favourite hotspot for film shoots as well. You could be gripped with nostalgia until you reach the place that’s close to the Padmakshi temple and you find that most of it’s architectural finesse has been ravaged over a period of time. There’s a small water body right next to the temple. Attempts to recapture past glory are being made, with some renovation works still on. A series of artefacts, intricate architectural designs and Brahmi script inscriptions of the 850-year old temple are a delight for history and photography enthusiasts.

With the sun still shining bright, there’s time to visit the nearby Bhadrakali temple. A share-auto does the honours and a surreal backdrop with a lake named after the goddess, welcomes you. Situated on a hill, it offers an ideal opportunity for a 360 degree view of the city. A heavy siesta-inducing lunch later, we finally visit the Warangal Fort. The old world charm of the place consumes you after a long stroll. The four grand gateways to the fort, the pillared mandapa with a majestic Nandi, the remnants of many Lingas scattered are highlights of the historic site. Those who have seen the Telugu film Rudramadevi can spot the similarities and see where the inspiration for the story and sets came from. There’s an unavoidable urge to read up on the Kakatiya kingdom in detail during whose reign Warangal used to be called ‘Orugallu’ or ‘Ekasilanagaram’, to indicate a city carved out of a single large rock. Incidentally, Orugallu was the capital of the Kakatiya dynasty from the 12th century until it was defeated by the Delhi Sultanate in the 14th century. An equally interesting site in the form of Kush Mahal that the Delhi Sultanate had captured offers a panoramic view of the fort area.

On the other end of city, interesting sites to visit include the temples of Siddheshwara and Ramappa, and the Ramappa, Laknavaram and Pakhal lakes besides the Eturnagaram wild sanctuary. For the kids, there’s a children’s park close enough too. Once the night sets in, the city transforms into a rock garden. A two-day visit to the place will work for a leisurely trip to most of the destinations. If one were to travel from Hyderabad to Warangal, a drive of about 2 to 2.5 hours by car, or a train journey is bound to work as better alternatives to buses.

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