Antarctica, the White Continent — the possibility that we could make the journey to this frozen land remained as distant as the continent itself, till we spot an advertisement. Next thing, we fly 20 hours to reach Buenos Aires, the beautiful capital of Argentina. The next stop is Ushuaia, the southern-most city of the world, and the Gateway to Antarctica, where we shop for warm clothing.
Soon, it's time to head to the port to begin our expedition, and meet up with an interesting mix of 19 nationalities on the ship. The weather is calm, so are the waters of the Beagle Channel, as the vessel speeds East. There is continuous excitement as we sight ‘tuxedoed' Magellanic penguins, imperial shags, wise-looking sea lions and playful dolphins.
A sailor's nightmare
Drake Passage, the shortest distance between Antarctica and other continents, is every sailor's nightmare, with its waters known to be the roughest in the world. It is here that the cold, humid sub-polar climate starts changing into the freezing dry Antarctic climate, and a variety of sea birds, including the albatross and petrel, distracts us. Simultaneously, there's an evacuation drill and a set of instructions on the use of life jackets and the code of conduct, for the adventure ahead.
Our first views of land in the Antarctic region are dim shapes through dense fog. Despite the fog, we have two good landings in the South Shetland Islands. Once ashore Barrientes Island, riding the zodiacs (inflatable boats), there are exciting close encounters with chinstrap penguins and colonies of gentoo penguins. They obviously aren't worried about aliens landing on their territory!
Along with the penguins are the predators and scavengers — the skuas, petrels and gulls... Amidst the volcanic geology, we spot Antarctic fur seals, and while returning, a Minke whale right next to our zodiac.
On Half Moon Island in the afternoon, weather conditions deteriorate rapidly, and we head to the safety of our ship. But, it lists under the force of a katabatic wind off Livingstone Island. It snows constantly — a true Antarctic experience! The bitter cold cannot dampen our spirits, as we land on the continent in Neko Harbour. However, howling winds and heavy snowing cancel our night's camping at Damoy Point. The captain steers the ship past a dangerous-looking iceberg to sail through the night in the safer waters of the Bismarck Strait.
Next day, the temperature is zero. But, the weather begins to turn in our favour. On Togerson Island, we see moulting Adelie penguins, moss and even a type of grass native to Antarctica.
We are off to Palmer Station, operated by the U.S., one of the premier research stations in the Antarctic that only a few ships are allowed to visit. After a tour, delicious brownies and hot coffee, we walk straight into a souvenir shop!
As we cruise through the Lemaire Channel, the Antarctic scenery unfolds in all its beauty. Clouds drape themselves around mountain peaks that show off the gorge with its glassy flat water. The snow-dusted mountains are as spectacular as the sculpted icebergs, in various shapes, textures and brilliant hues of blue. And, of course, the marine mammal sightings — crabeater, Weddell and leopard seals.
On our camp site close to the Almirante Brown Station, the thrill of spending the night out on the snow is a dream come true.
Our bivouacs (sleeping bags) spread under the tent have three layers to keep us warm. We stay awake, listening to the roar of the ice calving, and observing the sky and the glittering Southern Cross.
Next day, the air temperature is – 1 degree. But, 23 bravehearts are willing to have a Polar dip…
Soon, it's back to Ushuaia through the Drake Passage, and time to bid adieu to the expedition team.
The trip to Antarctica is expensive. But, the amazing experience at the one place in the world that preserves its pristine mystery is worth every penny spent. So, will we do it again? Yes. And, again.
ADVENTURE UNLIMITED
Oceanwide expeditions ( >http://www.oceanwide-expeditions.com ) and Polar cruises ( >http://www.polarcruises.com/anatarctica ) organise tours
Cost: Rs. 4.5 lakh a person (approximately), including return airfare, food, stay and local tours, for a 21-day trip
