The modern history of the Ammaveedu starts with Karthika Thirunal Rama Varma. It was during his reign that the capital of Venad kingdom was shifted to Thiruvananthapuram. Over time, these families with their close association with the royals of erstwhile Travancore dominated the social, political, and cultural scenario of Travancore.
Among the four well-known Ammaveedu in Thiruvananthapuram, the Thiruvattar Ammaveedu claims to have a unique identity, for it is associated with Swati Tirunal Rama Varma, the famous musician King of Travancore. Swati Tirunal married three times. His first and second wives were adopted by the Thiruvattar Ammaveedu before the marriage ceremony.
Pratap Kizhakkaemadhom, in his book Pattum Parivattavum, sheds light on the life and times of the consorts of the King. In 1007 M.E. (1832 A.D.), Swati Tirunal had ordered for the construction of the Thiruvattar complex in Perunthanni, to the West of the Fort. A malika was also constructed later, on the land bought from Koopakkara Potty. The malika can still be seen alongside the Arattu Road. However, the sprawling three-courtyard house, constructed in conventional style of Kerala architecture, vanished long ago. This structure, after it was partitioned among the numerous members of the family, was pulled down.
Surprisingly, a small portion of the old house was salvaged and is still preserved by one of the members of the Thiruvattar Ammaveedu. “Around 35 years ago, after the partition of the property, I decided to preserve my share of the building,” says S. Aiyappan Thampi. An engineer, Thampi supervised the dismantling of the old house. The wooden panels were numbered and the old structure was documented before it was taken apart. Aiyappan Thampi had the ‘poomukham’ and two of the adjoining rooms carefully relocated to Niramankara, where he planned to preserve his share of the ancient house.
“I took care in preserving the structure exactly in the same condition it was found when I had it dismantled from the actual site. With the help of photo documentation and my experience in the field of construction, I supervised the carpenters who helped me in setting up the old house in the new environment,” says Thampi. The attention paid to detail is praiseworthy. Thampi, when he reconstructed the building, asked the artisans to retain the slight inward inclination in one of the wooden pillars in the poomukham.
This small section preserved by Thampi does provide us with some clues to the grandeur of the house. The gable is adorned with the relief carving of a Goddess, flanked on either side by elephants. The serpentine curve of the charupadi (latticed inbuilt wooden seat) adds an elegant touch to the poomukham. The ceiling also bears testimony to the dexterity of the indigenous craftsmen in handing timber.
Aiyappan Thampi’s maternal grandparents, Lakshmi Pillai Kochamma and artist K.R. Ravi Varma (nephew of Raja Ravi Varma), resided in the old Thiruvattar Ammaveedu at Perunthanni. Thampi’s parents, Sharada Pillai Kochamma and Sreedharan Thampi of Arumana Ammaveedu, also resided in the same house.
“I grew up in the Thiruvattar Ammaveedu, and it was hard for me to let go all the sweet memories of my ancestors who resided in the old house,” says Aiyappan Thampi. If not for him, we would have lost this magnificent piece of history!
( This write-up is based on an interview with S. Aiyappan Thampi, former executive engineer, Irrigation Department )
[The author is a conservation architect and history buff]
