After I returned from my seven-day sojourn to Seoul, someone asked me what you can do there. Actually, the question should have been what can’t you do in the capital of South Korea. For any common observer of politics, the East Asian nation springs up in the news only when tension escalates across the border, but for those who follow the fine things life has to offer, South Korea can never fade into oblivion with its K-fashion, K-pop, K-beauty. Of course, Seoul is brimming with all this, but we tried to go beyond it to experience the city in its entirety.
Spend some time by the stream
I judge a city by its concern and attitude for its ecology. And the revival of Cheonggyecheon and its restoration is a big giveaway on that front. You would wonder why after leading the reader into the glitzy world of Korean glamour and music, we begin with a stream which traces its history to the times of the Joseon Dynasty. The soul of snazzy Seoul reflects in Cheonggyecheon. In summers, the area surrounding the stream feels like heaven. As compared to other parts of Seoul, the average temperature of the area drops by 3.6 degrees. Moreover, with its graffiti, walkways, rich avian and aquatic life, the stream has turned into a landmark for the city. If you plan to visit in November, it will coincide with the Seoul Lantern Festival, during which hundreds of lanterns of different shapes and sizes illuminate the Cheonggyecheon stream.
Go to the Cheonggyecheon Museum located alongside the stream to find why it deserves to be highlighted. The story of the 600-year-old stream, which was covered during the Japanese occupation and revived in 2005, is inspiring.
Wear a hanbok and say kimchi
Hanbok, Korea’s traditional costume, is on revival mode. School and college students in Seoul hit the markets, monuments and palaces on Sundays in a blouse shirt (jeogori) and a wrap-around full-length skirt/gown dress (chima) and happily pose for pictures. There is something about hanbok that has Giorgio Armani and Miuccia Prada on its fan list.
You can join the list too. For designer stuff, head to some designer studios, maybe Lee Young-hee, who has forever been pushing the case of hanbok, or maybe the massive Dongdaemun fabric market. Choose from the choicest of hanbok materials on display and come back with a customised outfit for yourself, besides fabric, yarn, buttons, laces, ribbons, embroidery, home-décor fabric, quilting fabric… Dongdaemun fabric market is a textile hub that has cemented its place in the international fashion scene. Designing, manufacturing and sales… everything takes place under one roof!
Explore history and culture
Dongdaemun Design Plaza
Right opposite Dongdaemun fabric market is the iconic Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP) designed by the late celebrated architect Zaha Hadid and Samoo. The fantastical structure is home to museums, design labs, exhibition halls, seminar halls and a designer’s lounge. You can come across treasures like I did. At the Kansong Art Museum’s ‘Flowers, Birds and Animals in Korean Painting’, I saw some of the best Nature paintings done by the likes of legendary Korean artists Jo Seok-jin, Sin Myeong-yeon, Kim Hong-do, Ma Gun-hu. Gansong is Korea’s first private art museum known for possessing rare samples of Korean art. The collector used his fortune to buy the nation’s antiques during the Japanese occupation of Korea.
But look around and you will find that Gansong’s love for art has percolated down to successors. Museums, galleries, public art… Seoul has art all around. Within the Gyeongbokgung Palace (Seoul’s main royal palace) grounds, there is the National Folk Museum which gives an insight into the traditional lifestyle of Korea.
MMCA
And just across the street from Gyeongbokgung, is the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, (MMCA) one of South Korea’s finest museums. When I visited, the museum was showcasing a mix of home-grown stars, like the oriental artist Suh Se Ok, contemporary installation artist Ahn Kyuchul, well-known South African artist William Kentridge, German media artist Julius Popp. MMCA’s most dynamic space — Seoul Box, was displaying one of Popp’s most famous installations, bit.fall pulse.
Nam June Paik
My next discovery was Nam June Paik, the artist who is considered the father of the video art genre, at Gallery Hyundai, which is just 100 steps away from the museum. On the 10th death anniversary of the artist, the gallery was hosting an exhibition of his works, and also a re-enactment of his performance, A Pas de Loup .
Insa-dong market
For art, another place to go to is Insa-dong, which is filled with quaint galleries showing local Korean artists. Since this market is on a must-do list for everyone who goes to Seoul, chances for it to be missed are bleak.
At Gwanghwamun Square as well — one of the most famous photography spots with the statue of King Sejong in the backdrop — there is the National Museum of Korean Contemporary History, The Story of King Sejong Exhibition Hall, which is right behind the statue of King Sejong, the most respected king of the Joseon Dynasty and creator of Hangeul, Korea’s alphabet. Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art, ‘Hammering Man’, a monumental kinetic sculpture by Jonathan Borofsky, are the other important landmarks in Seoul’s artscape.
Watch the Nanta performance
I am certain that once in Seoul, you won’t come back without your dose of K-pop, which turned into a global phenomenon with Psy’s ‘Gangnam Style’. So, I am not harping on that. K-pop, in any case, needs much more space. But don’t miss the Nanta performance. This comic, non-verbal play set in a kitchen, has been going strong since 1997. The performers play percussion on kitchen utensils — water drums, pots, knives and chopping boards. They are chopping, dancing and creating music. The audience is invited to join them for some super fun on stage. And amidst all this happens some live cooking. Book in advance, as Nanta Theatre is usually packed.
Stay atJingwansatemple
The pluralistic culture of South Korea is one among many of its positives. Faiths of Christianity, Confucianism and Buddhism co-exist peacefully, and in fact, a large number of its population also comprises non-believers.
But go to Jingwansa for the experience. Surrounded by mountains in the lush green environs of Bukhansan National Park, spend some time meditating, relaxing, eating some delicious monastic food and learning about Buddhist culture.
We had an elaborate tea ceremony, which gave us an insight into the tea culture of Korea. But interestingly, the tea-drinking nation is turning to coffee in a big way.
The ancient monastery’s intriguing history in itself is a big draw. The temple was built in 1011 but burnt during the Korean War.
A woman monk, Jin-kwan, later rebuilt the temple, which is now run by women monks. It is headed by nun Gye-ho.
It is probably the only temple preserving the tradition of Korean temple cuisine, which is devoid of garlic and onion.
(The author was part of an Indian women journalists’ delegation to Seoul, South Korea.)
