Located to the south-west of the Padmanabhapuram Palace is Muttalakurichi (Tamil Nadu), a sleepy agrarian hamlet strewn with many tanks and canals. The village path, beneath the dense canopy of coconut groves, takes us to the kottiyambalam (gate) of the famed Pulluvilakathu Mele Veedu, the ancestral home of the Sarvadhikaryakkars associated with Travancore royal family.
Climbing up the stone steps, one reaches the forecourt of the extensive compound dotted with the valiya padippura, the thai veedu (main residential unit), the thekkath (place of worship) and sacred trees, all enclosed within a high kotta-kayyala (fort-like compound wall).
“Pulluvilakathu Mele Veedu traces its origin to Charode Kalathil Veedu, an ancient house located near the Charode palace,” recalls Bhavanikutty Amma, a senior member of the family. According to oral tradition, the family gained prominence during the reign of Anizham Tirunal Marthanda Varma and the patriarchs of the family were bestowed the position of Sarvadhikaryakkar. “The sprawling residence in Muttalakurichi was constructed following the orders of Swati Tirunal Rama Varma,” says Bhavanikutty.
The valiya padippura denoted the elevated social status of the family members, for it served as a venue for conducting important meetings. Intricately carved rafters, capitals of pillars and the brass metal work in the main doors provide a glimpse to the high degree of perfection attained by indigenous craftsmen.
A splendid carving of a galloping horse invites our attention as we enter the padippura. The presence of such a motif may point to the family’s early military heritage. The carving reminds us of a similar motif seen in the façade of Kuthira Malika in Thiruvananthapuram, also constructed by Swati Tirunal. “Family records mention the name of an early ancestor, Sarvadhikaryakkar Marthanda Pillai, whose niece is regarded as a common ancestor of all the present family members,” says Rajashekharan Nair, another member of the family.
Marthanda Pillai was succeeded by Kumara Pillai, who was the last Sarvadhikaryakkar from the family. “It is said that the then ruler of Travancore, with regard to the loyal service rendered by our family, bestowed on us the right to conduct the Ārattu and Pallivetta at Ramaswamy temple and Neelakanta Swamy temple in Padmanabhapuram. We still maintain the traditional rights at these temples,” he adds.
Like the numerous prosperous households scattered across the cultural landscape of Nanjinad, Pulluvilakathu Mele Veedu also embraced an agrarian lifestyle. “There was a large opening in the compound wall to bring in the harvest from the paddy fields. The kalam for processing the grains was at the western side of the house,” recalls Bhavanikutty. In olden days the house had a chowkka, an enclosed cabin overlooking the kalam, from where the patriarchs kept an eye on the servants.
The thai veedu was originally a 16-kettu, with four courtyards; however, only two courtyards remain today. “In one of the ara (room) was kept the weapons and the long coat used by the Sarvadhikaryakkars. The precious family heirlooms were handed over to the Padmanabhapuram Palace Museum in 1940s by my father,” recalls Bhavanikutty. Today, the ara holds one sword and the bow used for the Pallivetta ceremony.
It is worthwhile to note that the members of the Pulluvilakathu Mele Veedu have joined hands to form a family trust that preserves their heritage.
