Home-style cooking is based on experience, trial and error, but for popular chef Vicky Ratnani, it is a science. “Cooking is methodic and like a formula. The taste depends on the ingredients; if I make sambar in Mumbai, it will not taste the same as it does in Chennai simply because the water is so different,” he says. In the city for a cooking workshop organised by Ink Blott, he demonstrated a number international dishes modified to accommodate local ingredients, without compromising on the authentic flavour profile.
As he whips up a deliciously buttery green paella with bell peppers, celery, olives, beans, peas and zucchini, he says, “This classical Spanish dish is usually made with seafood, but this is my version of it. I’m currently exploring how food can be made without masking the original taste of the ingredients. It’s all about avoiding over-modification and making food look like food.”
Vicky also explains that while there are suitable alternatives for most ingredients, some recipes use specific ingredients for a reason. For instance, parmesan cannot be replaced by processed cheese in a risotto — the former is used because it does not melt easily or become stringy, but adds depth to the dish. And while exotic vegetables can be used, it’s not always necessary; a great dinner can be created simply with what’s in your refrigerator. Throughout the workshop, he shares interesting information about Mexican, Italian and French cuisine, origins of food and general tips on smart cooking. He simplifies the process of making dishes like pistachio pesto, potato au gratin or even the ratatouille; it’s less daunting to attempt them after seeing how these can be made with everyday ingredients.
“I encourage people to be creative in the kitchen. Recipes are just guidelines. The season, where you stay, and what you and your family like to eat — these determine what you cook,” he says, adding, “I like to cook with local produce and fresh ingredients; the cuisine or even the dish that I’m going to make only comes next.” He’s also a big fan of South Indian cuisine, especially the Moplah, Syrian Christian and Tamil Nadu varieties.
While he currently works as the culinary director at Everstone Capital, a private equity firm that has brought the likes of Burger King and Harry’s Bar to India, Vicky has also been busy filming his new TV show Vickypedia . “The show will feature exotic dishes from around the world, but made with simple ingredients. I’ve also been working on my YouTube channel, Vicky’s World; the best thing about it is that there is no fixed format, so I can do whatever I want,” he says.
But young chefs just entering the industry should not be carried away by the social media side of things, warns Vicky: “Learn the trade and hone your skills first; the rest will follow.”
