In the evening gloom that envelops the rooftop of UB City, Farzi Cafe stands out like a beacon. The lights are bright, the music is loud, and people mill about outside and occupy the standing area in a corner, giving the place an air of exclusivity. We find ourselves a table and are promptly presented with a palate cleanser in the form of an explosive ball of yoghurt, which pretty much sets the theme for the evening.
Among the long list of available starters are many interesting little gems. Take the dal chawal arancini with achar papad chutney, a tiny little ball of rice with a dab of chutney and a little papad on top, which can best be described as a traditional Indian meal in a single mouthful. The Bombay bhel sees a chunk of the mixture made into a powder with liquid nitrogen, while Farzi's take on the Malabar parotta consists of the round parotta being miniaturised and filling being stuffed between two individual pieces. There is a touch of international fusion as well; with the tandoori margarita kulcha giving a fair representation of the results if Indians had invented the classic pizza, with a generous helping of cheese and bloody Mary sauce stuffed within the bread.
The drinks are no less creative, with names like Kala Jamun, which is a spin on the popular goli soda, and the bubbling LIIT, a mixture of the white spirits and Coke served in a tall jar kept at a bubble with dry ice at the bottom.
Despite the swanky decor and upmarket vibe, Farzi's culinary experimentation is rooted in tradition and nostalgia. The chuski margarita cocktail has a suckable ice lolly immersed in it, and the distinctive flavour presented by the sorbet is that of a hajmola candy.
The main course recommendation, keeping with the nostalgic vibe, was posh Maggi, with a helping of scallops and shrimp giving a new dimension to the familiar yellow noodles. Madurai Podi Appam, given a darker shade than usual with the help of some activated charcoal and combined with a side of spicy mutton kuzhambu, gave a fitting send off to the main course.
This was followed by some Rasmalai tres leches, given a fancy do up with some carrot cream and a rose petal net. The other standout dessert is a Parle G cheesecake, another nostalgic childhood trip with the buttery cake contained between two Parle G biscuits, instead of having a traditional biscuit base. The literal icing on the cake was provided by a few Gems candies. The mouth freshener, a paan-flavoured filling in a cotton candy shell, also took us back to olden times, with a unique twist.
At the end of a very filling meal, Farzi comes across as one of the places where there is a theme and a method behind the wildly creative dishes on offer. The only downside of the experience is the slightly confused vibe that is half laid-back bar, with thumping techno music and half fine-dining, with the luxurious ambiance and cosy little alcoves. For an outing with friends where the primary goal is to explore new gastronomic planes, it's hard to go wrong here.
