Once upon a time, many years ago, I used to spend considerable time in Chandni Chowk. One of my favourite haunts there was a small sweet shop called Tewari Brothers. I went there not for the sweets, but for the snacks –– mainly its breakfast fare. I don’t go to Chandni Chowk as often as I used to, but passing through Connaught Place a while ago I was happy to see that Tewari’s outlet in CP was still going strong.
I went there one day and found it shut. The place was being renovated, I was told. I went back there this week, and found it open. So, for old times’ sake, I asked for some papri chaat (Rs. 60 a plate), bedmi puri sabzi (Rs. 60), chholey bhaturey (Rs. 110) and kachori (Rs. 25 for two). Then I carried the lot with me for our community lunch.
But before I get to the food, let me give you the address. It’s in a market called Municipal Market (Shop No. 73), in the row of shops where you find several dhabas, close to Shankar Market. The phone numbers are 011-23413313 and 23411765. You can park in the outer circle of CP or at Shankar Market, and just walk up to Tewari Brothers. The snacks and the sweets come from Chandni Chowk. The day I was there, the consignment took some time coming.
But the food finally arrived, and my order was nicely packed and handed over to me.
There are some questions that haunt mankind. You know, questions such as what is the meaning of life, why do people fight over religion, and what is nationality. To that I add a question that is still to be answered –– what is it about desi ghee that food tastes so good when cooked in it?
Tewari’s forte, indeed, is the desi ghee it uses for cooking. So the bedmis, kachoris and bhaturas, fried in ghee, were outstanding. The sabzi, which had not been over spiced, was very good, too. The potato came lightly cooked in a runny, tomato-based gravy. The chholey was thick, and the spice balance was perfect – it was neither too hot, nor bland. It had been cooked just right, too. I have a problem if I find the chholey a bit hard, or too mushy. This was the way I like it, soft but not mashed. The kachori was crisp and not the least bit oily. An old jungle saying insists that food deep fried in desi ghee is never too oily.
I have no idea why – perhaps you can add this to the eternal questions still in search of answers.
Pleasant surpriseWe had a good meal. Even the papri chaat was nice. I believe that the best papri chaat is to be had in Old Delhi, but this was a pleasant surprise. It came covered with yoghurt and chutneys, tempered with some red chillies, black salt and a chaat masala that they prepare themselves. On top of it was a sprinkled layer of very thin bhujia, which added to the taste of the chaat.
My Tewari visit brought back nostalgia, and a happy and sated feeling at the end of the meal. It’s inspired me a bit, too. I think I should return to Chandni Chowk and visit the old shop. I need to touch base with an old friend.
