I reluctantly avert my eyes from the grey-blue expanse that is the Bay of Bengal to look for the new Hidesign office on Rue St. Martin in Puducherry.
As I mount the stairs of the classic yellow-and-white edifice, it strikes me that it’s not just the building, but the brand itself, that is quintessentially Puducherry. Low tolerance for frills, clean but undramatic looks, penchant for what is handcrafted — these aspects are now part of Hidesign’s recently launched footwear too.
After all, Dilip Kapur, who built the 35-year-old brand to make it the Rs. 160-crore business it has become today, grew up in the Aurobindo Ashram, which he admits, influenced his sense of design. “There is great beauty in simplicity,” he quotes the Mother. “To us, it is important to passionately believe in what we do.”
But what happens when the customer you create something for no longer exists? You are persuaded to change, to pander to tastes, while clinging to your individuality. “In the beginning, people bought Hidesign as a sign of rebellion. But the basic person has changed. That rebel does not exist, today,” Kapur states matter-of-factly, with a slight twinge of regret.
While acknowledging the brand has become more mainstream today, it is apparent that Dilip Kapur, after three decades, has found a way to channel his inner maverick that wants to stand apart. Only this time, the road to salvation is lined with shoes. But this segue into footwear is not new for Kapur. “Right at the beginning, I made whatever I wanted to — and I made some interesting footwear,” he reminisces, pointing out their similarity to Birkenstock sandals. “My first shoes were funky but made with natural rubber soles procured from factories in Kerala. Today, of course, the shoes are more formal and less funky.”
While footwear has been in the pipeline for five years, it was only in 2014, the brand decided it was ready for it. Though from one accessory to another seems a natural progression, it was by no means easy. Initially, Hidesign, like many other shoe brands, considered manufacturers in China, but the logistics did not work in its favour. Moreover, the product did not look like Hidesign. Bringing the focus back home led to much soul-searching as Kapur tried to figure out what a pair of Hidesign shoes would look like.
Running his fingers over an intricate detailing that has been hand-woven into the back of a moccasin, he says, “For us, distinctiveness comes from being handcrafted and details like this that clearly indicate some thought went into a shoe and it wasn’t thrown into an assembly line.”
It is the women’s line that Kapur has found more challenging. What he hopes Hidesign footwear will do for women is to surprise them. The style is meant to be sophisticated and contemporary. This is clearly against the grain, as the current market is flooded with cheap imports and glitzy shoes. “Where is the professional woman who needs to work, who needs to look serious and can walk around in comfortable shoes all day,” he quizzes. “When we flood our markets with mass-produced goods, we dumb down our fashion.”
As excited as he is about women’s response to his creations, Kapur is not keen on setting trends.
“I consider the word trendy an insult, for it means you are a fashion victim. I don’t expect people to change their footwear every three months. These shoes are not meant to fall apart; they should last, till you get fed up of them,” he chuckles.
There is nothing wild or wacky about the shoes, but trying on a pair of cherry-red peep-toes and sedate black moccasins, I realise that it is the cushion-like comfort that stands out. Says product designer Rashi Agarwal, “The focus was on ensuring that women can stay comfortable without compromising on looking glamorous.”
