The recently concluded Delhi Couture Week was a dramatic interplay of variegated themes. The fifth edition of the annual extravaganza saw an emphasis on creating high voltage drama around the ensemble, focussing as much on the presentation of designs as their creation. Leading couturier Ritu Beri puts it aptly, “I believe in the power of couture of not just being an optical delight but of stirring and evoking emotions with a ceremonial essence.”
High on kitsch and glam quotient, Ritu presented her collection ‘Punjabi Rock and Roll’ which was the realisation of a utopian kaleidoscopic dream. Voluptuously indulgent, Beri’s collection was “a global version of the exoticism of Punjab”. Women resplendent in bridal attire walked to the melodious accompaniment of Punjabi singers Jassi and Sunanda Sharma. Her collection was characterised by an eclectic synthesis of ghagras, patiala salwars, choga like jackets, sari inspired gowns and elaborate bridal finery, which sums up the season’s palette for her.
Varun Bahl’s ‘Flight’ enthralled on Day 3 and proved to be a celebration of Indian embroidery and hand embellishments. Dust pink, blue and tones like ochre, fuchsia and red were part of the spectacle. Monisha Jaisingh’s racy indulgence with the runway played subtly on the theme of beach weddings. She calls her collection western in sensibilities yet entrenched in the Indian spirit. The shapes were contradictory, supple and rigorous with an undertone of deep sensuality.
Adding the charm of jewellery to couture, Masaba Gupta emblazoned the models with the new demi-couture collection paired with a blend of kundan polki, diamond solitaires and pearls.
The designers owe the catapult of couture to the waning of the cattle herd tendencies. “The inclinations and sensibilities of our clientele have transformed. They are happy to create trends and be seen around in the unprecedented,” says Beri.
So, what are the buzz words for the season?
“Silk velvets, intricately embroidered satins and nets infused with zardosi, gota, Swarovski and nuanced thread work,” says Ritu. Monisha believes that the debauch yet feminine charm of evening wear shall be spun to include lingerie inspired gowns and body-hugging floor-length ones adorned with crystals. “There will be no shortage of opulence this coming season. It will be about glitter and glamour, with jewels and gemstones. Intricate crochet and delicate adornments will seduce this fall and winter,” she adds. Chintz had its moments too.
The canvas is loaded with a fusion of white, beige and pastels with a dazzle of fuchsia, orange, pink and the hues of the trousseau. Moon grey, Egyptian teal, ecru and pop neon adorn the eclectic kitty of Gaurav Gupta. As another curious addition, pouty, poker faces of models have seen a refreshing metamorphosis into the lively oomph of expressive ones.
The week saw a solitary offsite show at the Leela Palace. With Anamika Khanna’s ‘modern take on traditional silhouettes’, the understated elegance of Indian attire echoed as the bottom line. The festivities concluded for the year with Deepika Padukone, designer Manish Malhotra’s muse, flaunting a navy blue velvet zardozi lehenga with a plain, monochromatic puff-sleeved choli. The week was a celebration of womanhood in its every quintessential hue. However, the theatrical eccentricity of couture, though spectacular, is yet to score on the wearability quotient.
