Couturier Tarun Tahiliani has derived inspiration from the subcontinent’s culture and architectural heritage for his collection titled “Modern Mughals” which will be presented this Thursday at India Bridal Fashion Week. The collection will be a tribute to Indian craftsmanship perfected over generations, combined with the fit, finish and functionality of Western clothing.
Known for showcasing Indian craftsmanship with a touch of European tailored silhouettes, Tahiliani has given special emphasis to drape and structure. This time he will be using shaded gold with aubergine graded kalidar falls to give the look of a gown worn by the royalty. Furthermore, he will be making good use of the dupatta draped over the shoulder.
“During the Mughal reign, Hindustan had reached its pinnacle in art and architecture. While they were at the helm of affairs, our country saw a confluence of Hinduism and Islam,” says Tahiliani. “The Mughal reign was the last big civilisation. So we have the largest documentation of the Mughal era.”
Calling his collection “a metaphor of what the Mughals did in terms of craftsmanship and jewellery,” the designer says reading was a part of his preparations. “I have read the ‘Baburnama’, gone through Shah Jahan’s autobiography and am currently going through a book on the Mughals. Miniature paintings produced during that time certainly leave me awestruck.”
Since this will be a full-fledged traditional Indian collection, how will he make the garments look contemporary so that they have an international appeal?
“A lot of contemporary clothes would be used in this collection. We always do our drapes and we always have our wonderful dhoti-inspired drapes, sari drapes which are very contemporary. We have pale colours and we have corsetry. We have also tied up with Whitcomb and Shaftesbury, a Savile Row company, which is tailoring the simplest achkans with incredible precision. I think these are the twists that make the collection very contemporary.”
The collection, which will be shown on the first day of the Week, includes gota lehengas and aari work in gold. “We are deploying the finest techniques of the West for those who have money to splurge on extravagant clothes.”
More than Tahiliani’s aesthetic sensibilities, meticulous planning and interweaving of intricate design pattern, it is the celebration of Indian craftsmanship that has been the dominant feature of this fashion expert.
“My garments always have a touch of the traditional while the cut and finish are done in the Western way.”
The designer adds, “People want to be more gossamer, more ethereal, not just weighed down by hundreds of kilos of embroidery. I think we reached, a couple of years back, a point of excess in bridal, where brides had stopped looking like themselves. I think we have gone past this inflection point into a more secure society that wants style, rather than showing off what they own.”
Since Tahiliani has been in the couture business for over two decades, is it a challenge every time he participates in big fashion extravaganzas?
“It is so much fun to participate in such a big fashion extravaganza. In a way that is the final wonderful expression of what you do, to have an arena where you present all this finery in a befitting way on world class models with jewellery and styling. I do not look at it as any kind of stress. It is the fun and it is the perk of being in this business.”
