Coorg or the Kodagu district in south Karnataka is renowned for its coffee. What appears to be lush green forest from a distance is nothing but acres and acres of coffee and spice plantations. The tree cover for the coffee crop gives the hills a deceptive wild look. Underneath the canopy of trees, pepper and a multitude of other spices are grown along with coffee.
Rice is cultivated predominantly in the valleys and rice dishes form the staple diet in Coorg along with tasty and bold accompaniments made with pork, chicken and fish. It is one of the few cuisines in India where pork makes regular appearances. The Kodavas of Coorg are warrior people and are very passionate about their spicy and meaty cuisine. Hunting for meat was part of the Kodava tradition. Since hunting is banned now, pork has permanently replaced wild boar meat in the Kodava kitchens.
Wild mushrooms are a delicacy in this region and pumpkin and bamboo shoots are also used to make curries to accompany rice dishes such as akki roti , kadumbuttu , noolputtu and paputtu . Strong influences from the neighbouring state of Kerala can be noticed in Coorg’s cuisine.
Homestays are the most common form of accommodation in Coorg with planters opening up their homes to tourists. A taste of the local cuisine can be experienced here or at the restaurants Coorg Cuisine and Taste of Coorg in Madikeri town. The high-end resorts and plantation bungalows in the region also showcase the local cuisine in their menus.
For a traveller in Coorg, there are plenty of food souvenirs to bring home for family and friends. Spice stores all around the region sell neatly packaged cinnamon, cardamom, clove, black pepper, white pepper, nutmeg, mace, black stone flower, aromatic oils and home-made chocolates. Locally grown dried figs can also be bought from these stores. One stop at the store across the bus stand in Madikeri will suffice to purchase the spice bounty to take back home. Primrose oil from this region is also a good buy and it can be used to relieve body and joint pain. A bottle of the famed Coorg honey is not to be missed.
The famous pandi curry (pork) is one dish that anyone would like to replicate at home. The two key ingredients necessary for this dish are the pork masala powder and the kachampuli syrup. One need not fret trying to get hold of the recipe for the pork masala powder.
Packets of pre-prepared pork masala powder are readily available in the local grocery stores in the towns of Coorg. The powder is essentially a mix of locally grown spices slowly roasted to a deep brown colour and finely powdered. The Kachampuli syrup can also be purchased from similar stores. This syrup gives the Pandi curry its distinctive sour taste.
Pandi curry
Ingredients
1 kg pork cut into 1” cubes
1/2 cup water
6 garlic cloves, pounded
1” piece ginger, pounded
2 big onions, chopped
1/2 tsp turmeric powder
1 tsp cumin powder
1/3 cup coriander leaves, chopped
Salt to taste
3 tbsp oil
1 Big onion, chopped
1 tbsp kachampuli syrup
3 tbsp pork masala powder
1 tbsp coriander powder
1/4 cup coriander leaves, chopped
In a pressure cooker, add the pork cubes along with the first set of ingredients and salt. Pressure cook for seven minutes on low flame after the first whistle.
In a heavy-bottomed pan, sauté the chopped onion in oil until golden brown. Add the coriander powder and pork masala powder and sauté for a minute. Now add the cooked pork along with its gravy and the kachampuli syrup. Bring it to a boil and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the coriander leaves at the end and stir. Serve hot with akki roti, kadumputtu, idli, dosa, appam or rice.
