It was a week-long mission to sample some of the best non-vegetarian food in the city and I ended up eating stuff I never thought I would. Just finding these eateries was an adventure, with some of them tucked away in impossibly narrow lanes and in nondescript buildings. But, it was completely worth the effort, as these six outlets were affordable, served delicious fare and won me over with their warm ambience.
The best compliment I can pay them: the smell of spices, fluffy parottas and chicken biryani transported me back to my grandmother’s kitchen.
Kannannan restaurant
Where: R.S. Puram, opposite Karur Vysya Bank
When: from 12.30 p.m. to 3.30 p.m.
What: Lunch Thali
Call: 98942-11111, 99449-55156
The recipes are as old as the owner’s great-grandmother. The authentic non-veg virundhu with 17 items consisting of brain thokku, mutton chops, mutton kudal and thala curry. All are made in home-ground masalas and spices, with sombu for good digestion.
A meal here is priced at Rs.400. They use naatu kozhi instead of broiler chicken. I loved their nattu kozhi varuval, prepared with ground spices and pepper.
Central Mess
Where: Ram Nagar, near JM Bakery and Alankar Hotel
When: 8 a.m. to 11 p.m.
What: Chicken biryani and pepper chicken
Call: 98946-44522
Vadivelu is making me laugh from the tiny television perched on a table, while my eyes water as I eat the spicy pepper chicken, along with hot steaming rice served to me. The dining area in Central mess can accommodate not more than 15 to 20 people, but it is the best place to enjoy a quiet, non-veg lunch. Fish fry, chicken biryani, vegetarian meals…the options are plenty. You also get boiled eggs and omelettes. In the evenings, there will be dosa and idli, priced at Rs. 10 and Rs. 5 respectively.
Nanjai
Where: Parsn 3rd Gate Road , Nanjundapuram
When: 12.30 p.m. to 4.00 p.m.
What: Nanjai Virundhu
Call: 0422-436 8887, 87548-48444
I look at my leaf and sigh with happiness. There are at least 12 varieties of meat including nattu kozhi, mutton, turkey, and duck besides fish and prawns. The thaali priced at Rs.450, is unlimited. Gorge on the mutton chops and spicy mutton kudal curry.
Every day has its special and today it is rabbit. Owner CN Sekar and his brothers are self-declared food lovers and when they decided to start their place, they were determined they will offer a homely experience. “We love to eat. Most of the men in our family, including me, love cooking. And, all the masalas are ground at home.” They called it Nanjai, after their native place Nanjundapuram. Sekar believes in eating the meal right, with the right accompaniments. “Couple that hot rasam with fish fry and moru with mutton sukka!” he instructs. For dessert, relish the ghulkand sweet with curd rice or choose from their pettikadai box that offers thenmuttai, coconut candies, elantha vadai, groundnut mittai and more.
Sri Mookambika Mess
Where: Thiyagikumaran Street End, near Thomas Street, Town Hall
When: 7.00 a.m. to 11.00 p.m.
What: Manthal, prawns and crab curry
Call: 0422-6956390, 98430-17430
A waft of deep-fried vanjram and crab masala hits you as you reach this 55-year-old mess, tucked away in Town Hall. In the kitchen, 78-year-old Kamalam rubs salt and masala on the glistening nethili fish. Kamalam does not allow any adulteration in her authentic Kannur style cooking. “I ground all the masalas. I don’t allow anyone else to even clean the fish.” She wakes up at four in the morning to prepare the fish.
Kamalam’s podis have a huge fan following in the neighbourhood, some of who bring their fish to be coated with her magic masalas. Her son Vijayakumar runs the shop. “People from as far as Sulur, Peelamedu, Palladam, Pollachi and Tiruppur come here to taste our fish,” he says with pride. They also take bulk orders.
The interiors remind you of Kerala home. Inside, Master Ramayya is cooking up an elaborate meal. He is affectionately called Masterji. “I cook everything the Kerala way. I have been working here for the past 17 years. I have picked up the recipes from amma.”
At two in the afternoon, the restaurant teems with people from nearby banks and jewellery showrooms. Mathi curry (Rs.60), ayila (Rs.70) and manthal (Rs. 100 to 200) are most popular.
“I also love the unpolished rice, which is hard to find anywhere else in the city,” says banker Mukundan as he bites into a crunchy manthal fry.
DMF Restaurant
Where: Thiruvalluvar Nagar, near Alwarnia School, Ramanathapuram
When: 11.00 a.m. to 11.30 p.m.
What: Chicken tikka idli and variety dosa
Call: 98946-10029
The South Indian dosa and idli get a modern twist here. Chicken tikka idli, egg idli, chicken and egg sevai, chicken kheema roast, mutton curry dosa, and chinthamani dosai (egg)…
The ring-shaped chicken and idli chicken tikka have a huge fan following among kids. “We stay away from ajinomoto and artificial flavours and stick to Kashmiri chilly powder,” says B.Unnikrishnan, the owner.
Fish lovers gorge on their karimeen pollichathu which is a whole fish wrapped up in banana leaf. The chicken tandoori sells like hot cakes, too.
At noon, people flock to the restaurant for the fish curry meals.
The combo meal is a steal. You get chappathi, kurma, white rice, sambar, rasam, poriyal, pappadam, pickle and mathi gravy with two pieces all for Rs. 85.
Abitha Biryani Hotel
Where: Easwaran Kovil Street,Kottaimedu, Ukkadam
When: 6.00 a.m. to 11 p.m.
What: Beef Biryani
Call: 0422-4362033
One of the few places in the city that serves beef, Abitha bustles with hungry people. The quintessential Malabar delicacies such as parotta and biryani are served with a mouth-watering meat side dishes such as beef fry, beef sukka, mutton chops, chicken leg, chicken lollypop, pepper chicken, etc. The side-dishes are priced between Rs. 50 and Rs. 75. I dig into the chicken biryani (Rs.70), which comes with heavenly flavour of spices and soft meat. There is a separate space for women and family on the first floor. I cool my fiery mouth with some cool drinks and round off the meal with meetha pan.
Next on my list…
Cheap and Best: Gandhipuram, Second Street
HMR: Opposite Annapoorna, R.S. Puram
Chettinad Anandas: Opposite Collectorate
UBM Mess : Cheenapuram (76 kms from Lakshmi Mills Bus Stop)
Srinidhi Ammayi Veedu Pot Cook : Siddhapudur, Gandhipuram
