As we approached Bad Wimpfen, the historic spa town at the confluence of the Neckar and Jagst rivers in the Baden-Wuttenberg region of Southern Germany, I could see stone ramparts, church spires and the prominent Blue Tower silhouetted against the midday sun. The desolate Railway Station was the starting point of our guided tour of Bad Wimpfen. Constructed in 1868, the refurbished stone building currently houses the tourist information office besides a bistro.
Perched high above the River Neckar, the ridge-top town of Bad Wimpfen, is one of the prominent towns along the Neckar, which is dotted with dozens of historical villages, and wonderful little towns and castles. Only around 70 km away from the City of Stuttgart and 60 km from Heidelberg, Bad Wimpfen is the ideal base for trips along the Neckar valley and the Historic Castle Road. The place resonates with history and abounds in several imposing structures and heritage edifices that transports one to the medieval ages.
Absolutely medieval
I sauntered at my own pace gawking at the townscape steeped in its uncanny medievalism. While exploring all the alleyways and cobbled streets, I came across a guide in medieval attire bringing the past to life. The storybook rooftops, cobbled pathways, pots of geraniums beckoning from windowsills, and the ancient four-turret Blue Tower dominating the view reminded me of a fairy tale city. We were escorted through the narrow alleys to visit historical buildings such as the Palace Arcades and Chapel and the many towers and town gates. I could experience the medieval feel, the quirky character and the heartbeat of the town while ambling around in the inner city. The striking colours and geometrical patterns of the Swiss-Chalet style half-timber houses bowled me over.
The Blue Tower, the imposing emblem of the town, with its impressive height of 5875m grabs the eye. It is definitely worth trudging the 167 steps to the platform at a height of 32m from where we had stunning views of the contours of the medieval old town, and far across the Neckar valley. We met Blanca Knodel, the only female watchtower keeper in Germany. She ushered us around her small apartment at the top. Now, she lives all alone with her tomcat and does not leave the tower more than once or twice a week. People who help her carry up goods are rewarded with a pint of beer. She does not pay any rent but as part of her job of selling admission tickets to tourists, she gets to live there.
There's much more to the town than just the Blue Tower. Like all European towns, Bad Wimpfen has its own treasure trove of museums, historical buildings, churches, folklore, history and the like. There's history in each wall and stone. The Stown House, probably originally the women's apartments in the Staufen Palace, is the largest Romanesque dwelling house in Germany. It has Gothic stepped gable and seven-sectional window. On the first floor there are valuable medieval and late Gothic mural paintings. Built in the second half of the 13th century, it is claimed to be one of the oldest buildings in the province of Baden Wuettemberg and features the Roman History of Bad Wimpfen.
To savour the eventful history of the town, head to the historical Museum, the Reichsstadtisches (Free City of the Holy Roman Empire) Museum or in the Museum of Ecclesiastical History. Pavement cafes and restaurants are aplenty, quaint and laid-out, with their cheerful awnings, and chairs and tables in the sun, and people, relaxing with food and wine. I stopped by Café Feyerabend to rest my weary feet. The Café was started by Fredrick, a baker in 1563. During 1600, though the stone house was razed down in a fire but some portions remained. The place and its environs exuded the town's soul. While savouring the raspberry cake, Black Forest and Frederick cake, I could imagine the Old Town's medieval past coming alive during the Zunftmarkt, a historical market where artisans in period costumes flaunted their wares and kick-started the festival with a colourful parade on horseback.
Bad Wimpfen has a year-round festive air. One has to be here during Christmas when the old German Market comes alive with “candles, Christmas cribs and concerts” combining tradition with joie de vivre. There are other sightseeing options as well. One can take a boat trip on the Neckar, a ride in a covered horse-drawn wagon followed by a vineyard tour and wine tasting, and a guided tour of the town with the night watchman. I found the residents of Bad Wimpfen proud and passionate about their glorious heritage which they zealously guard. It is no wonder that these life-sized picture postcard sights remained so lovely, authentic and remarkably well preserved over the years.
The author is a travel writer and photographer based in Bengaluru.
