Women in villages around Lucknow work on a craft that is 500 years old. History has it that Mughal Emperor Jahangir’s wife, Noor Jahan, brought the art of chikankari to India from Isphahan. These artisans transform muslin, mull, georgette, chiffon, silk saris and yardage into ethereal, embroidered fabric. With the mystique of shadow work in bakhia, the charm of tepchi, kangan and keel, the intricacy of daraj, jaal and the other exquisite stitches of chikankari, fields of roses, chrysanthemums and ‘chamelis,’ are created.
‘Cotton Fab 2014’ presents saris, salwar suits, dupattas, tops, dresses, kurtis, men’s kurtas, stoles and table linen in chikankari, in white, pastels and jewel tones.
The handiwork is not only of rural women but also those working for units of the Lucknow-based NGO, Awadh Hathkarga Hastashilp evam Gramodyog Samiti, which also trains women in this craft. There are benarasi brocades, silks, silk cotton saris and yardage on display, worked with motifs of kairi, bel, buttie and flowers in colours ranging from dramatic black and white to royal purple, red, blue and yellow. The rough textured Bhagalpurs come in soft to bright colours and in tussar, cotton and jute.
There are also chanderis, maheswaris and jamdaanis from West Bengal, apart from Kashmir’s woollen and pashmina shawls. While Y Koteshwara’s Kalamkari floral prints are poetic, Gujarat’s and Jaipur’s earthy block prints are fascinating with their traditional and innovative motifs. Also on view are elegant uppadas and Odishas’ sambhalpuris.
‘Cotton Fab 2014’ is on at Co-optex Complex Grounds, Pantheon Road, tillDecember 31.
