There are tales behind the stunning saris on display at the ‘Textile Show’ organised by the Crafts Council of India. Created by the combined efforts of weaver, block maker, printer, dyer and designer, the stories emerge as one unfolds the saris on view: woven and block printed Maheswaris and Chanderis, Mull and ‘revived’ Matka, Benarasis, Kanchipurams, Ashavalis and Patolas. It is an exploration of ancient weaves and new textures, merging with explosive colours, traditional motifs and modern designs.
The story of Ashavali is one of revival. Woven with traditional Gujarati flowers and animals, lyrical colours and multiple-hued borders, Ashavali has been resurrected from near oblivion by textile experts such as Radhika Lalbhai. She says, “I was initiated in the art of Ashavali, Patola and Bandhini by my mother and for the past 20 years I have been working on reviving its richness.” Vishal Kapur’s Design Studio uses innovative printing and woven techniques on contemporary saris. His collection of block-printed saris is the result of creative interface with handloom clusters of Mangalgiri, Benarasi Kota and Chanderi.
Sarfraz Khatri of Pracheen takes the play of natural colours and hand block motifs to another level on silk, matka, cotton saris and dupattas. He is the fifth generation hand block printer, whose Ajrakh-based techniques use both traditional motifs and contemporary floral imagery. Sarfraz says, “We only use dyes extracted from indigo, madder, Majishtha, skin of pomegranate and so on”. Ayya Designs’ Yakulorai silk patchwork saris and jackets, Kotas and salwars by Mohammad Yunus and Ojasvini’s kurtas are compelling style statements. Not to be missed are Khoj’s repertoire of Maheshwari, tussar silk, designer Bengal saris from Meera Apparels and Awdesh Kumar’s distinctive hand block prints from Jaipur.
Anuradha Raman offers hand block printed weaves, ikats hand-embroidered saris, dupattas and fabric, while Falguni Zaveri has a range of formal and semi-formal kurtas.
Deepa Mehta’s craft is showcased on Maheswaris, Benarasis, Kanchipurams, Uppadas, tussars, khadis, matkas and more.
Finally, the pride of India’s weaves, the incomparable Benarasi. ‘Nilambari’ designers have created a fabulous range of Jamdani and Baluchari saris. ‘Jadau’ polki - uncut diamond jewellery, and handcrafted evening bags add lustre to the exhibition.
The Textile Show is on view at My Fortune Hotel, Cathedral Garden Road,on September 11 and 12.
