Mehrauli is one of the seven important cities that make up Delhi apart from Siri, Tughlaqabad, Jahanpanah and Shahjahanabad. Hidden at every nook and corner are architectural marvels. There are a number of tombs of prominent people from the Sultanate (1206 to 1506) and Mughal (1506 to 1857) era. These tombs are usually placed near the dargah of saints. Hence, the tombs of the later Mughals are near the dargah of Khwaja Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki in Mehrauli or Humayun’s tomb near Nizamuddin Auliya’s dargah .
Lodi era tombs | Photo Credit: SPECIAL ARRANGEMENT
Home to 55 historic structures built by various rulers, including the Khaljis, Tughlaqs, Lodhis, Mughals, and the British, the Mehrauli Archaeological Park (MAP), spread over 200 acres, is a UNESCO World Heritage site and was revamped recently for the G-20 summit. There is a lot to see, from the Jamali Kamali Mosque, Metcalfe House, Rajon ki Baoli to the tombs of Mamluk king Ghiyas-ud-din Balban and Mughal governor Shah Quli Khan.
Start from the 16th Century tomb of Adham Khan and his mother, Maham Anaga. It is a reminder of Akbar’s wrath who threw Adham twice from the palace terrace for murdering his favourite general and Prime Minister Atgah Khan, also the husband of Jiji Anaga, a wet nurse of Akbar. This Mughal-era tomb was built in an octagonal shape with low towers at corners. It consists of Lodhi style domed octagonal chamber with ‘verandah’ on each side. Nicknamed ‘Bhool-Bhulaiya’ (labyrinth) for its maze-like passages, it stands on the ramparts of Lal Kot, north of Qutub Minar. Converted into British officer Blake’s residence, this also served as a police station and post office before being restored by Viceroy Lord Curzon.
Adham Tomb | Photo Credit: SPECIAL ARRANGEMENT
A few metres away is Zafar Mahal or Lal Mahal built in red sandstone. The palace built by Akbar Shah II in 1820 was renovated by Bahadur Shah Zafar II, the last Mughal emperor in 1847-48. It stands next to the dargah of 13th century sufi saint Qutubuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki. That is probably the reason why three generations of later Mughal emperors — Bahadur Shah I (1701–1712), Shah Alam II (1759–1806) and Akbar Shah II (1806–37)— lie buried next to each other inside a marble enclosure beautifully decorated with screens or jaalis, a part of which was unfortunately knocked down recently. A vacant spot in between reminds us of Bahadur Shah Zafar II’s last wish to be buried here. However, due to his arrest in 1858 by Major William Hudson and, later, deportation to Rangoon, his wish remained unfulfilled.
A view of Rajon Ki Baoli at Mehrauli Archaeological Park Jamali Kamali in New Delhi | Photo Credit: Shiv Kumar Pushpakar
This palace is also a reminder of the syncretic culture of Delhi, which witnessed the ‘Phoolwalon Ki Sair’ pass through the streets with the Emperor enjoying the view from his Mahal The procession would later reach the Yogmaya Mandir dedicated to Goddess Yogmaya, sister of Lord Krishna. This festival was started in 1812 by Akbar Shah II’s wife Mumtaz Mahal, after her son Mirza Jahangir was exiled to Allahabad by the British Resident Sir Archibald Seton.
A Sultunate Era grey sandstone tomb of Alauddin Masud Shah (1242-46), the Sultan of the Mamluk Dynasty in Delhi, is believed to be the oldest surviving structure in the palace complex.
At Jamali Kamali mosque, there are tombs of Balban, Shahid Khan, Quli Khan and few unknown ones. It is a pleasant walk on account of the greenery and the thoughtfully put up signposts.
A view of Alauddin Khalji’s Tomb at Qutb Complex, Mehrauli, | Photo Credit: File photo
Jamali Kamali tomb and mosque contains the tombs of Sufi saint Jamali or Shaikh Fazlu’llah and his disciple. Jamali, a well-known court poet, enjoyed the patronage of the Lodhi dynasty and that of Babur and Humayun as well. To see the exquisite decoration on the ceilings of the tombs embellished with blue and red tiles imported from Iran, prior permission has to be sought from the authorities.
In front of this is an open area with the tombs of Giyas ud din Balban (1266-87) and his son Shahid Khan. Shahid had died fighting against the Mongols near Multan in Balban’s lifetime.
Tomb of Balban, Mehrauli Archaeological park. | Photo Credit: File photo
Balban of Mamluk dynasty is remembered for taking strong steps to control dacoity and robbery on Delhi roads in the 13th century. His tomb is housed in the building Dar-ul Amaan (Haven of Safety) and as the name suggests, it served as a haven from debt collectors. This stone and masonary structure of 1287 CE is of utmost significance since it is the first site where the true arch and dome, a prominent feature of Indo-Islamic architecture, introduced by the Turks, made its appearance.
A few steps away is Sir Thomas Theophilus Metcalfe’s boathouse and 17th century tomb of Mohammad Quli Khan, Akbar’s foster brother and son of Maham Anaga. After climbing a flight of stairs, what catches the visitor’s attention is an intricate ornamentation full of calligraphic, floral and geometric patterns and the glazed blue tiles on the octagon shaped wall outside. This point throws up a beautiful glimpse of the Qutb Minar as well and close to this is a raised platform with several
At Mehrauli Archaeological Park in New Delhi. | Photo Credit: SAJJAD HUSSAIN
As one enters the Qutb Complex, close to the north-west of Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque stands the tomb of Shamsuddin Iltutmish (1211-1236 CE), son-in-law and successor of Qutbuddin Aibak. Built by Iltutmish himself in 1235 CE, a year before his death, the cenotaph is made in white marble, surrounded by exquisitely carved arched entrances on the three sides. On the west side of the tomb, the interior has three mehrabs (please describe what it is) to serve as a place for prayers. Also, there are designs such as wheel, bell-and-chain, lotus, and diamond — a reminder of indigenous decorative motifs, which was the handiwork of local craftsmen.
The MAP is a treasure trove of history, culture and chronological learning. It is open from 6am to 6pm and entry is free.
