Among the country’s fashion cognoscenti, the pressure began building mid-March when the announcement was made: that the French luxury house Dior would be presenting its latest Fall 2023 collection at the iconic Gateway of India in Mumbai.
Of the 99 models, most were South Asian, a first for a calendar collection, and making for a proud moment in fashion. (Photo by Indranil MUKHERJEE / AFP) | Photo Credit: AFP
‘Are you at Dior?’ soon became a question on loop, as clients, fashion writers, influencers and the social set began making plans for India’s big fashion moment. After all, while Pierre Cardin, Yves Saint Laurent and Valentino have had shows here in the past, this is the first global launch of this scale of a calendar collection. It soon became apparent that only a select few would be invited, what with the seating capacity at the venue (built to commemorate the visit of King George V. in 1911) pegged at 850. Also, Dior was flying down international celebrities, buyers and media.
But this show was also about Maria Grazia Chiuri, Dior’s creative director of the women’s collection, making good on her promise to take creativity to where the craft is. It is the latest in her many collaborations with Karishma Swali, who directs the Chanakya ateliers and the Chanakya School of Craft in Mumbai. Theirs is a long-standing relationship, close to three decades, from when Chiuri was at Fendi and Valentino. Now in her seventh year at the French behemoth, Chiuri is setting the tone for her contemporaries by acknowledging the significant role Indian crafts play in the world’s biggest luxury fashion houses.
Maria Grazia Chiuri and Karishma Swali. | Photo Credit: Sahiba Chawdhary
Chiuri, who is the first female artistic director in Dior’s 74-year history, began the collection with black, ran the gamut from chartreuse and rani pink to deep purple, before cruising to a gentle stop with shimmering grey. A welcome splash of Madras checks and block prints drew some applause. There were gowns, toile de jouy skirts, and trenches, sari-inspired skirts with pleats and bows, and knit tops with Indian choli tie-ups in the back (more than a hint of Rajasthan there). But the extra bit of fun came from the long sleeveless dresses, buttoned on the sides, with shorts underneath. Off the runway, these were worn by actor Poorna Jagannathan and influencer Mira Rajput.
Models flaunt Dior’s Madras checks (created at Chanakya by weavers from Tamil Nadu), rani pink and deep purple outfits on the runway | Photo Credit: AFP
Chiuri has been known to use dance in her runway shows — choreographer Sharon Eyal is a regular collaborator — but for this Indian outing, the indophile pleasantly surprised with live music composed and conducted by Scottish cellist Oliver Coates and featuring the Symphony Orchestra of India. Models walked to the stirring beat of tablas and multi percussions by Anuradha Pal, and excerpts of ‘Speaking in Tongues’ and ‘Om Namaha Shiva’ by Sheila Chandra.
Models Pooja Mor and Sumaya. | Photo Credit: Rosella Stephen
As the majority of the 99 models at this seasonal event were Indian, there was also much talk about this being a South Asian moment. Shreya Chaudhary, an Indian model from New York, referred to the endless cups of chai they had during hair and make up, while another model from Ireland chuckled over “the switch in fashion as I was a minority here”. As for the look — hairstylist Guido Palau’s 1920s hair with twin buns and deeply-kohled eyes — one of them, Pooja Mor, associated it with Indian princesses. There was some speculation that Chiuri was inspired by Maharani Gayatri Devi. That said, when a question was posed to her about unforgettable Indian women at a media session the previous day, the Italian designer had just one name: Rekha. Having met the veteran actress at a welcome dinner, she was “inspired by her esprit de jeunesse, her incredible energy”. Meanwhile, at the show, the Umrao Jaan actress stood out among a sea of Dior faithfuls and their Lady Dior bags in her signature Kanjeevaram. It was incredible.
In addition to the waxed finger waves of the 1920s, the models also sported twin buns; seen here, Pooja Mor and Sumaya. | Photo Credit: Rosella Stephen
But it was the craft that took centre stage: on the decadent yet wearable ensembles featuring embroidered peacocks and tigers, and beaded flowers, which Chiuri paired with multiple strands of pearls and velvet flip-flops. And on the Toran that formed the backdrop — it took six weeks for team Chanakya to make. “They are proud of their work,” Chiuri said at the pre-show briefing. They know they are doing something magnificent. When they saw the Toran set up, there was big emotion.”
“In France, we speak a lot about métiers d’art, and here in Bombay they do too, about their own unique métier d’art,” Chiuri continued. She talked about the deep connection she found with Swali, brought about “by the excellence of craft, the savoir faire of a combined language, the importance of energy and creativity”. It is this that she hoped to share with visiting media and the world.
Front row select
(From left to right) Actress Rekha, actress Sonam Kapoor, sitar player and music artist Anoushka Shankar and 90s supermodel Ujjwala Raut with Aliya Modi, Lalit Modi’s daughter. | Photo Credit: ANI Photo and Rosella Stephen
While work on the collection and the much-anticipated soiree began months ahead, there have been events spread over several days, including visits to the Chanakya workshops. And there is a retrospective underway at the city’s Snowball Studios, dedicated to the work Indian fine-artist couple Madhvi and Manu Parekh have done with the House of Dior, together with Chanakya.
Actor Poorna Jagannathan and music artist Anoushka celebrating with the models after the show. | Photo Credit: Rosella Stephen
“Maria Grazia pointed out that traditionally the craft was handed down from father to son in India, and women haven’t really had the opportunity to express themselves creatively, to have financial independence and autonomy, so we decided to dedicate the school to women,” added Swali, about the project that she shares with Chiuri. “We came up with a curriculum that is truly robust and prepares them for mastery over a skill. We have collectively trained more than 1,000 women.”
Dior, which has two boutiques in India, appears to be clearly committed to the country. In fact, many luxury brands are focusing their attention here. While luxury is not new to India, the Indian luxury market is valued at US$6 billion (Euromonitor), while China is at US$53 billion. There is potential for many new investments and we are seeing them. Later this year, Paris’ luxurious shopping centre Galeries Lafayette will open its flagship store in Mumbai, and plans are afoot to launch a Cartier flagship store here as well. Valentino will be opening a store in Delhi. It’s no secret that Indian ateliers have been servicing the world’s top luxury houses but Chiuri has taken the lead with her Chanakya partnership and by announcing that Indian embroidery will have a permanent residence at Dior. Earlier this week, she posted on Instagram: “We are finally here Mumbai! It is a dream come true to present a collection in a city and a continent I love so much.” Now let’s hope the other international brands will follow suit.
