Standing on a dark, deserted lane, between snoozing dogs, we are convinced we are lost. Then, we walk a little further and push open a non-descript door, only to find ourselves in a cheery, softly-lit bar, alive with greenery, music and conversation.
Set in a restored, almost hidden — but sprawling — villa, in the village of Sangolda, well away from the bustling Goan beaches, Grumps has been designed to be a neighborhood hub. “We knew that this space was going to be challenging, the bar is tucked away, but that gives you a sense of discovery,” says Kartik Vasudeva, who owns and runs the space with his partner Agrini Satyarthi. He adds that they are relying on ‘word of mouth’ to reach the neighbourhood, and eventually the tourists.
Crispy corn cake at Grumps | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Set in the backyard of a Portuguese home from the 1930s, Grumps was restructured to create an inside-outside space, juxtaposing the busy bar with a relaxed fruit tree-lined garden. “In Goa, everyone likes to sit outside, so we created this integrated space that ensures you are cosy, but still feel like you are part of the action,” says Kartik.
The short and tightly curated menu is Asian-inspired and whimsical. Kimchi grilled cheese with Sichuan honey, for instance. Or grilled mushrooms with shiitake miso, lemongrass and egg yolk. In a nod to Goan food, there is also a Rendang ros omlette, with pulled pork shank.
Set in the backyard of a Portuguese home from the 1930s, Grumps was restructured to create an inside-outside space | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
“We did not want it to be too conventional,” says Kartik, “For example, we do a play on avacado toast, but use wonton sheets instead of toast, topped with cream cheese and fresh guacamole.” They also offer sharing plates with heartier food — like their popular steamed lime and chilli chonak (a local fish) served with crisp onions and jasmine rice. (Grumps is now open from lunch on Saturday and Sunday, if you are in the mood for a leisurely afternoon of food and cocktails.)
“For the cocktails we wanted to go back to basics, where we do classics well, and then do a take on them,” says Kartik, adding that though they use contemporary techniques for the drinks, they “don’t want to bore people with details.” Named after popular songs, the drinks, often based on gin and tequila — which is having a moment — use fresh seasonal and local fruits.
Try the Stand By Me, featuring tequila, guava, sumac and basil, or the Goa-inspired Smack That, with cashew feni and frangipani pickle. With urrak season around the corner, Kartik is also planning a line of fun cocktails with the fresh juice, made from the first distillation of cashew apples.
The Goa-inspired Smack That, with cashew feni and frangipani pickle at Grumps | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
As for their name? Says Kartik, “We want to say let’s not take ourselves too seriously. Let go of your problems, for that moment — even if you come in grumpy, we want you to you leave happy.”
