It is almost noon and Jaipur’s Badi Chaupar is as busy as it gets. Two-wheelers, autos, buses, cars, rickshaws and e-rickshaws are at loggerheads with each other; pedestrians and cyclists jostle for space. Shops overflow with fabric, garments, shoes, bangles, utensils and, of course, shoppers. In short, there is chaos all over.
But somewhere in this chaos exists a tiny island of calm – an unnamed pushcart selling modest dal pakodis. The cart appears every morning at the junction, and feeds everyone who passes by. From indifferent locals to excited tourists, from hungry students to famished housewives – no one can resist the charm of its piping hot pakodis.
To the world, Jaipur may be famous for its
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“If you come here on Sunday, you will see buses full of villagers alighting at the crossing and reaching straight for these
The aroma tells me a fresh batch has just been fried and I promptly ask for a portion. It is handed over to me on a piece of newspaper, garnished with tangy and spicy green chutney. The pakodi s are small, crisp, and piping hot. It is impossible to eat one without burning your fingers of scalding your palate. But I cannot wait and decide to give it a go anyway.
Because the
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