Fork in my luggage: all that wriggles

Southern Africa’s mopane worms are an unmissable delicacy with their striking appearance and earthy flavours

You don’t live in Southern Africa for 20 years without snacking on mopane (pronounced mo-pah-nee) worms at least a dozen times. The bright blue-and-black critters on a branch make for a spectacular photo; but seeing them immobile on a plate is a starkly different experience. And seeing this, you’d never assume that mopane worms are worth millions in the Southern African food-economy.

I remember the lead-up to and the experience of tasting my first; it was probably one of the most off-putting things for someone who isn’t familiar with Batswana culture. But at the age of 11, it’s more of an accomplishment than a daunting dare. It was Commonwealth Day at my primary school and everyone was crowded around the platters of mopane worms.

I asked the lady who was running the stall about the means of preparation; she mentioned the maturity of the worm is important. Batswana tend to avoid eating the head, as most of the flavour and nutrition is in the pudgy body. The worms need to be well past the juvenile stage and right before they enter the cocoon stage.

Sometimes, the worms are sun-dried and eaten as is, but other people prefer to fry or bake them to an appetising crisp, and then cook them mixed with fried tomatoes, garlic and onions… just like bhindi.

I picked one up, eyeing the body, then ate it whole; a slight saltiness with a smoky and earthy undertone filled my mouth. The worm wasn’t dry to the point of unsavouriness, but they do need an acquired taste that builds over time.

When eating them in a curry or a stew, the worms are a great way to add a salty taste to the overall flavour profile. And as the eating experience progresses, it becomes as natural as eating mutton or chicken for some.

Then I asked the all-important question: Why? She said the worm, named after the leaves it usually feasts upon, is a vital source of protein in an arid climate where food shortage is common. Indigenous tribes like the San in the Kalahari ensure children are fed these to build up weight and immunity in the early years. Yes, the common name is ‘madora,’ but ‘mopane’ is far more preferable, more homely to me.

Having moved out of Botswana, eating mopane worms has become a fond and unforgettable part of my growing food culture. It’s a happy bellyful memory I carry with me, daily.