Chef Ritu Dalmia’s latest looks East

Spice, crunch, flavour, this Diva almost has it all

Bomra’s Tomato Salad at the restuarant

Ritu Dalmia is persistent. It is this persistence that got her to work in her family marble business as a teenager, that allowed her to open her first restaurant without any training at age 22, and to fight for her sexual freedom which led to the Supreme Court’s landmark decision on gay rights. Today, it is this continuing persistent nature that got her to re-open Diva Spice, her pan-Asian food restaurant, after it shut down at the original location in Meharchand Market.

When you think of Ritu Dalmia, you think Italian. But with the newly opened Diva Spice, she brilliantly balances sweet, spicy, and sour, provides outstanding crunch, and takes you on a journey to your favourite places across Asia. And does so in a way that’s a welcome change from most pan-Asian restaurants. The balance of flavours is also evident in the Asian-inspired cocktails.

The vibe : Mildly eclectic and airy. The Asian oriental theme hits you as soon as you see the wallpaper on the wide staircase, which leads up to the first floor restaurant. The dining room area itself is not as well appointed as it was in its previous location, but is clean and welcoming.

Chef Ritu Dalmia

Do try : Crispy duck with caramelized hazelnut and chili orange dressing. The next time I go, I will order two for myself, and a beer. The duck crackling was perfect — just the right amount of salt and amazing crunch.

The bao, in the Panko-crusted eggplant bao, could have been fluffier, but the eggplant was crispy on the outside and melt-in-your-mouth on the inside. The samosa served in a yoghurt curry was heart warming — tangy, spicy, and the pomegranate added extra crunch.

From their large plates, the Ubudh-style papaya and lychee curry, which was sweet and sour with a strong hit of spice and juiciness of the lychee pieces, is a must-have.

As for cocktails, I wish they did the rum drink infused with chamomile by the pitcher. The gin-based spice wasabi sour was also excellent and had a great ginger aroma.

Skip : The Malayali prawn curry — my Malayali friend who ordered it scoffed at it. It was much too sweet and definitely not Keralan. The chilli caramel fish was over-cooked and didn’t have enough chutzpah for a Ritu Dalmia main course dish.

I had three of the four desserts on the menu; all were a big no-no. The cheesecake was flaccid; the panna cotta wasn’t set properly, and had a radioactive green syrup splattered on it; the ginger crème brûlée was all wrong — the top didn’t crack when hit with a spoon, and it was all floppy inside.

Go with : Anybody, and everybody.

Space bar : Seating for 46 over 1,000 sq ft.

How much : ₹4,000 for two (sans drinks)

Getting there : N-block market, Greater Kailash Part 1; use a cab, or get a driver.